I just purchased one of these (a replacement for a very hard to handle Bosch) and to my surprise the knob for adjusting the cut depth is very loose and doesn’t indicate the cut depth increments as the picture indicates. Is this standard? And yes it is the P model with the Clark Foam nameplate attached.
I just purchased one of these (a replacement for a very hard to handle > Bosch) and to my surprise the knob for adjusting the cut depth is very > loose and doesn’t indicate the cut depth increments as the picture > indicates. Is this standard? And yes it is the P model with the Clark Foam > nameplate attached…What did you find difficult about the Bosch?..Lift up the knob on the Hitachi,and take a small rubberband ,and rap it around,under the knob,this will allow you have a stiffer knob movement.As far as the depth indicator,you’ll have to etch your own marks as you go along.(see"other" on the board page).Herb.
Thanks Herb. The Bosch has a trap that has to be manually held open as you cut, at the same time you have to hold the trigger - one finger on the trigger, one finger holding the lever for the trap and then that leaves me with two fingers and a thumb to hold the planer. Plus it’s a bit heavy. My wrist started to kill me after a few boards.
Thanks Herb. The Bosch has a trap that has to be manually held open as you > cut, at the same time you have to hold the trigger - one finger on the > trigger, one finger holding the lever for the trap and then that leaves me > with two fingers and a thumb to hold the planer. Plus it’s a bit heavy. My > wrist started to kill me after a few boards…Remove or tape the trap door,and tape the button down(that’s what I do with mine)IT makes it more managable.I noticed a little more weight,but it’s no where as heavy as the Skill-100.If the bosch bothers your wrist so will just about any planer.Do some wrist exersizes as a suggestion…Herb.
the CLARK HITACHI SB-20A PRO , is a great planer.It will take some time to get use to using.You can archive this subject, it’s one that has been drilled over and over.Jim Phillips has some great tricks in these archives…As far as the Bosch it’s a good planer,and they cut great,but with some beginner like safety fetures that aren’t so user friendly,THE FIRST THING I DID WAS TO RIG IT AROUND TO MY LIKING.When you have time play with it…or if you bought it at Home Depot, they have a liberal return policy,and be honest with them ,and tell them what it is you don’t like or were expecting.Herb.
My > wrist started to kill me after a few boards. Those “safety” buttons are a pain. Always puts a blister on my thumb. Mash it in and glue it with super glue. Done – 4-ev-a. On the wrist thing – I will declare myself an expert here after 4 years of treatment for repetitive strain injuries and two carpal tunnel surgeries. Nearly all hand power planners in the “retail” category are ergonomically incorrect for milling surfboards since the handles are more parallel to the deck than perpendicular. I would imagine that most of the practical uses for these tools are in rough carpentry and working on objects sitting low – probably on a floor. Hence, the handle allows the planer to “hang” from the user’s hand in a neutral position. A good design for that use. Take these same planers and use them at waist level on a surface – your wrist will be torqued in an “L” shaped position – pinching the nerves in the hand. The vibration and physical stress will compound the effects of pinched nerves, stress on tendons – tendon pain would probably be felt more in the elbow, while the cause is from the torqued wrist. One remedy is to use gloves while working with tools like the planer – weight-lifter’s gloves with a wrist wrap are best. The second would be to use a planer that has better ergonomic characteristics – ie, the Skil Model 100, or other planers that have a handle more shaped like a “D,” or more perpendicular to the deck than horizontal. With these planers – more commonly the industrial planers – the wrist is in a more neutral position while working at table level and less likely to be torqued, pinching the nerves. Etc. So, take heed – five years ago my doctor started talking about ergonomics when I was talking wrist pain - I thought to myself “ergonomics” that sounds like some liberal, left wing, bull S___. Got me a hard lesson on that one. Shine http://users.leading.net/~shine
the CLARK HITACHI SB-20A PRO , is a great planer.It will take some time to > get use to using.You can archive this subject, it’s one that has been > drilled over and over.Jim Phillips has some great tricks in these > archives…As far as the Bosch it’s a good planer,and they cut > great,but with some beginner like safety fetures that aren’t so user > friendly,THE FIRST THING I DID WAS TO RIG IT AROUND TO MY LIKING.When you > have time play with it…or if you bought it at Home Depot, they have a > liberal return policy,and be honest with them ,and tell them what it is > you don’t like or were expecting.Herb. I use a Bosch B1750. Its a very good planer, and will cut to a depth of nearly 1/8" which is plenty for most applications. The depth control is very positive with “click stops” and clear markings for depth of cut.It doesn’t have whatever gate is being described here. The only “safety feature” that it came with is a button next to the trigger that has to be depressed before the trigger will actuate (easily removed if you are so inclined). Also the vacuum adapter in my opinion is superior to that avaiable for the Hitachi. It connects directly to a standard shop-vac hose with a simple friction fit.
Those “safety” buttons are a pain. Always puts a blister on my > thumb. Mash it in and glue it with super glue. Done – 4-ev-a.>>> On the wrist thing – I will declare myself an expert here after 4 years > of treatment for repetitive strain injuries and two carpal tunnel > surgeries. Nearly all hand power planners in the “retail” > category are ergonomically incorrect for milling surfboards since the > handles are more parallel to the deck than perpendicular. I would imagine > that most of the practical uses for these tools are in rough carpentry and > working on objects sitting low – probably on a floor. Hence, the handle > allows the planer to “hang” from the user’s hand in a neutral > position. A good design for that use.>>> Take these same planers and use them at waist level on a surface – your > wrist will be torqued in an “L” shaped position – pinching the > nerves in the hand. The vibration and physical stress will compound the > effects of pinched nerves, stress on tendons – tendon pain would probably > be felt more in the elbow, while the cause is from the torqued wrist.>>> One remedy is to use gloves while working with tools like the planer – > weight-lifter’s gloves with a wrist wrap are best. The second would be to > use a planer that has better ergonomic characteristics – ie, the Skil > Model 100, or other planers that have a handle more shaped like a > “D,” or more perpendicular to the deck than horizontal. With > these planers – more commonly the industrial planers – the wrist is in a > more neutral position while working at table level and less likely to be > torqued, pinching the nerves. Etc.>>> So, take heed – five years ago my doctor started talking about ergonomics > when I was talking wrist pain - I thought to myself “ergonomics” > that sounds like some liberal, left wing, bull S___. Got me a hard lesson > on that one.>>> Shine I cut off the handle of my Hitachi-Clark Planer, ground the base of the cut off handle so it would stand at a more upright position on the planer, then expoxied it back on the base of the planer. This left a gap on the front part of the handle where it was cut off. I filled in this gap with a piece of sheet metal screwed to the handle and to the base to give it more rigidity. It really helped with my wrist ergonomic, now I’m holding the planer in a more upright position making it easier to push the planer across the surface of the blank.
Skip, I think what Drew is describing is the bi-pass lever to the trap,some of these levers are loose and shift on there own(like mine did).I just taped the trap lever in place…Drew is this the lever you are posting about? Or is it the swing gate,dust collector at the back of the planer you are talking about? I also removed that too…Herb.
Nice touch!!!Send my love to Laura Powers for me.Herb.ALOHA
Skip, I think what Drew is describing is the bi-pass lever to the > trap,some of these levers are loose and shift on there own(like mine > did).I just taped the trap lever in place…Drew is this the > lever you are posting about? Or is it the swing gate,dust collector at the > back of the planer you are talking about? I also removed that > too…Herb. Sorry, I was referring to a lever that you slide which opens a door to reveal the cutting blades - with it closed the planer won’t cut anything. I guess I could’ve modified it but it wasn’t my planer and my buddy wouldn’t of appreciated it. The dust colletion tube doesn’t fit exactly to a shop vac so a little duct tape does the trick. I don’t have the planer in front of me to give you model #s but I have to assume its a good one. Everything this guys uses is top of the line “old” “built to last” commercial tools which he uses to build the most beautiful and expensive furniture around. I did cut nice and I think being used to it I like the way it cuts but that darn blade cover. I grabbed the Hitachi for the “Clark Foam Stamp of Approval” which I know sounds dumb but they make a good product that a lot of folks use and like. I’ll give it a shot but I really would’ve liked it if they did leave the darn depth marks on there. Why would they be removed? Thanks for the advise.
Those “safety” buttons are a pain. Always puts a blister on my > thumb. Mash it in and glue it with super glue. Done – 4-ev-a.>>> On the wrist thing – I will declare myself an expert here after 4 years > of treatment for repetitive strain injuries and two carpal tunnel > surgeries. Nearly all hand power planners in the “retail” > category are ergonomically incorrect for milling surfboards since the > handles are more parallel to the deck than perpendicular. I would imagine > that most of the practical uses for these tools are in rough carpentry and > working on objects sitting low – probably on a floor. Hence, the handle > allows the planer to “hang” from the user’s hand in a neutral > position. A good design for that use.>>> Take these same planers and use them at waist level on a surface – your > wrist will be torqued in an “L” shaped position – pinching the > nerves in the hand. The vibration and physical stress will compound the > effects of pinched nerves, stress on tendons – tendon pain would probably > be felt more in the elbow, while the cause is from the torqued wrist.>>> One remedy is to use gloves while working with tools like the planer – > weight-lifter’s gloves with a wrist wrap are best. The second would be to > use a planer that has better ergonomic characteristics – ie, the Skil > Model 100, or other planers that have a handle more shaped like a > “D,” or more perpendicular to the deck than horizontal. With > these planers – more commonly the industrial planers – the wrist is in a > more neutral position while working at table level and less likely to be > torqued, pinching the nerves. Etc.>>> So, take heed – five years ago my doctor started talking about ergonomics > when I was talking wrist pain - I thought to myself “ergonomics” > that sounds like some liberal, left wing, bull S___. Got me a hard lesson > on that one.>>> Shine Exactly - thank you! I use those gloves at the gym and I thought of that same thing while whielding the planer - look out Herb “When the planer cuts she cried more, more, more!” [blush]) Maybe I should try wearing my the mouth guard I have to wear at night for grinding my teath and also my corrective shoes - look out ladies. Ohhh it’s late and a day off tomorrow! Pray for surf!
Exactly - thank you! I use those gloves at the gym and I thought of that > same thing while whielding the planer - look out Herb “When the > planer cuts she cried more, more, more!” [blush]) Maybe I should try > wearing my the mouth guard I have to wear at night for grinding my teath > and also my corrective shoes - look out ladies. Ohhh it’s late and a day > off tomorrow! Pray for surf! Hey foamdust how about some pictures?!
I agree with you on the Hitachi,in time you won’t need any cutting marks to guide you.The sound of the blade pitch will tell you all you need to know.Most of the guys that use Skills will tell you the same thing.On my Skill-100, the first thing I did was stuck a screwdriver in the bottom of the lever slot and pushed/bent down the clicker plate(this was in 1975)to allow the depth ajustment lever to slide freely…As far as my Bosch …it doesn’t have the feature that you have described…at any rate happy cutting!!!Herb.
I agree with you on the Hitachi,in time you won’t need any cutting marks > to guide you.The sound of the blade pitch will tell you all you need to > know.Most of the guys that use Skills will tell you the same thing.On my > Skill-100, the first thing I did was stuck a screwdriver in the bottom of > the lever slot and pushed/bent down the clicker plate(this was in 1975)to > allow the depth ajustment lever to slide > freely…As far as > my Bosch …it doesn’t have the feature that you have > described…at any rate happy cutting!!!Herb. Herb has it pegged, you want the adjustment moving a freely as possible. The max cut is 1/8"th, half is 1/16"th, how hard is it to figure out the spaces in between? The tone my blades make tell me immediately how deep the cut is, a lot of shapers I know wear headsets, I’d rather listen to my tool than muted silence or a CD. The tools talk to you as you work. I just shaped a longboard for Blasa Bill in Florida, I went to use his Hitachi and he asked if I liked it. I told him sure, well he gave me the Hitachi for the shaping, I’ll always take another planer. It has a clogged adjustmnet tube, so I bought a set of clip ring tools yesterday so I won’t be using screw drivers to remove them any more. The surf was about 6-8…inches for the week I was in Fla., so be very happy over the summer we’ve had here in Ca. http://www.JimtheGenius@aol.com
Herb has it pegged, you want the adjustment moving a freely as possible. > The max cut is 1/8"th, half is 1/16"th, how hard is it to figure > out the spaces in between? The tone my blades make tell me immediately how > deep the cut is, a lot of shapers I know wear headsets, I’d rather listen > to my tool than muted silence or a CD. The tools talk to you as you work. > I just shaped a longboard for Blasa Bill in Florida, I went to use his > Hitachi and he asked if I liked it. I told him sure, well he gave me the > Hitachi for the shaping, I’ll always take another planer. It has a clogged > adjustmnet tube, so I bought a set of clip ring tools yesterday so I won’t > be using screw drivers to remove them any more. The surf was about > 6-8…inches for the week I was in Fla., so be very happy over the > summer we’ve had here in Ca…It’s funny how a little crappy tool can make such a big difference!Herb.
Those “safety” buttons are a pain. Always puts a blister on my > thumb. Mash it in and glue it with super glue. Done – 4-ev-a.>>> On the wrist thing – I will declare myself an expert here after 4 years > of treatment for repetitive strain injuries and two carpal tunnel > surgeries. Nearly all hand power planners in the “retail” > category are ergonomically incorrect for milling surfboards since the > handles are more parallel to the deck than perpendicular. I would imagine > that most of the practical uses for these tools are in rough carpentry and > working on objects sitting low – probably on a floor. Hence, the handle > allows the planer to “hang” from the user’s hand in a neutral > position. A good design for that use.>>> Take these same planers and use them at waist level on a surface – your > wrist will be torqued in an “L” shaped position – pinching the > nerves in the hand. The vibration and physical stress will compound the > effects of pinched nerves, stress on tendons – tendon pain would probably > be felt more in the elbow, while the cause is from the torqued wrist.>>> One remedy is to use gloves while working with tools like the planer – > weight-lifter’s gloves with a wrist wrap are best. The second would be to > use a planer that has better ergonomic characteristics – ie, the Skil > Model 100, or other planers that have a handle more shaped like a > “D,” or more perpendicular to the deck than horizontal. With > these planers – more commonly the industrial planers – the wrist is in a > more neutral position while working at table level and less likely to be > torqued, pinching the nerves. Etc.>>> So, take heed – five years ago my doctor started talking about ergonomics > when I was talking wrist pain - I thought to myself “ergonomics” > that sounds like some liberal, left wing, bull S___. Got me a hard lesson > on that one.>>> Shine Shine, I barely hold onto the handle, lock the trigger and use the front knob to apply pressure on the front shoe. The rear handle is to guide the angle of the planer rather than holding it up. I use just my finger tips on the rear anyway, with the trigger at ready for shut down. My key board gives me more tingles than a planer ever has. I hold the planer at arms length, rather than being right over it. As I turn at the ends of the blank, it is almost like a reverse drop knee with my left arm tucked against the belt housing and the palm of my hand pushing the rear of the planer in a nearly straight line. I see too many shapers with the planer cocked around too far, running nearly sideways, this is OK for up in the tip of the nose rocker, but for getting the truest line, the more base that is in contact with the work, the evener the line. http://www.JimtheGenius@aol.com
. My key board > gives me more tingles than a planer ever has. I heard dhat! I have a 7% disability rating as a result of keyboard injury. One reason I am looking at shaping as an alternative career. Shine http://users.leading.net/~shine