hey there, this question is for anybody who’s ridden a hollow wooden board. i’m planning mine right now, and was wondering what size you would recommend for a longboard. what would really bring out the qualities of the material and make an epic ride? also, would you put vee in the tail? are there any other design elements that you would be sure to include? i’m using a method similar to Jensens, just hopefully a little cheaper. thanks for your help!
As far as what design elements to add, like Paul says, anything is possible. If you like belly or concave or vee or crowned deck…whatever, you can make it work with a hollow, too. That said, there are some definite considerations to be made. Sure, hollow boards are lighter than solid wood, but that doesn’t mean that they’re light. I built a 7’6" about nine months ago, and it is a whole heck of a lot heavier than my 9’8" classic longboard. So, anything that will make the board easier to turn should at least be considered. I would definately put some vee in the tail, and probably some belly through the mid section. Fin forward a little? (not too much, you still want those epic noserides) The archives are full of discussions of different performance features.
Also, before planning planshape, etc., find out what materials are available in your area. It can be difficult to get lumber longer than 8’ in a lot of places, which means splicing wood if you want a longboard. This isn’t something to jump into without planning…the ol’ measure twice, cut once thing…I’d measure three times. Don’t let me scare you. All the blood (I nearly lost a finger), sweat, and tears are worth it when you paddle out on a unique vessel that you made from scratch.
Have fun and post your progress often.
Seay
As seaywlaker says, you can do any board in hollow version. I made mine (7’2’‘, 22 inches wide) for about 60 dlls in materials, and currently building a 5’6’’ fish and have spent 15 dlls untill now. they can be as cheap or as expensive as you want.
For dimensions I think something 9’ or above will be fine. If you plan to go cheap, then maybe your board will be heavy. Mine weighs about 20 lbs. Believe me, you dont want a board heavier than that.
Jack
My 9’9" longboard gun weights 27 pounds. It’s really painful to carry down the beach but once you catch a wave, rides are magic …
My 8’ comes in at 24lb, but that was my first attempt, lotsa glass lotsa epoxy.
Thinking of building a little trailer to transport it down the beach, but that’s another project.
Getting wiser now, listening more, reading lots.
Like-wise, woods are damned heavy, at Croyde last week it took me twenty minutes to get back up the beach with what felt like an eighty mph wind against me, with the 22 lb of timber under my arm (and occasionally around my back and against my face) it was a bit of a strain for my boney girl arms and legs. But the work and carry are always well worth it. Mine’s 7’ 4" just as a point of interest (or disinterest). The board is really floaty and catches waves as well as anything I’ve ridden before (limited).
I’m now building a 6’6" swallow tail tri fin thing, no v’s or concaves on either board, I’m not that ambitious yet, it seems like a bit too complicated for me at my present stage of learning, these being the only boards I’ve built.
Go for it though, wood is the way!
I have stuck to Paul Jensens method apart from the deck and bottom skins, for which i have jointed three pieces of ply wood for each (oak, sapele, oak for the top and sapele, oak, sapele for the bottom), I think this looks stunning on the swallow tail thing and has simplified the process and made it loads cheaper, though it still needs reinforcing with carbon fibre or at least glass. Timber of any description, especially anything other than pine is really expensive in England. Latest progress pics to be posted later today when I remove the clamps.
Jase (MMM)