horrible first glass job


Wanted to touch on a familar topic. 1st glass job went bad around nose and tail. Troubleshooting I left too much glass and did a horrible job tucking the laps before the resin kicked (kicked before I expected). All rookie errors I am looking forward to learning from! 

As you can see, some of the areas around the nose and tail bunched up and look like folded sheets of paper. I have began sanding down/razor blading what I can but wanted to check the collective wisdom of the pros on my next steps. 

  1. Do I continue to sand down/cut until as even as possible and then use some denature alcohol to clean things up and just go ahead and laminate the deck as usual?

  2. With the bumps I have sanded down, knowing there are some missed spots, high spots, etc. is the glass job on the deck still going to work?

My goal is to have something surfable. With it being my first board, knew it was not going to be perfect. Any recommendations that get it into the water (even if course and will not leave the board looking pristine) work for me! 

Thanks in advance for your help! 


pics 2


Non pro here. Not sure if you used epoxy but I would recommend it.resin research makes a “slow” kick …I found  the  “fast” gives ample time in my experience (usually in colder weather in the 60’s ,70’s )

as off fold in your cloth ,gonna be hard to sand off and not hit the paint job or foam… 

next time do a smoother job cutting the laps and keeping an eye on them till resin kicks. Maybe try a cut lap


good luck and wait for some more replys


We’ve seen worse.  

Just sand it as best you can and go from there.   If you get into the paint - which you probably will, then plan on coming back after and reshooting it.   

The part of the board that needs to be smooth is the bottom.   The deck can be a little rougher without affecting the ride.  For my own personal boards I don’t even sand the deck - I only sand the bottom and rails and take a quick pass over the deck to knock down any nubs.  The deck gets covered with wax anyway.  

The main thing you want to do for the deck is to not repeat the same mistakes on the laps going on the bottom.  Now is not too soon to learn how to tape for a cutlap.  Make it easy on yourself and only use a 1" cutlap on the bottom side.   Before you lay the tape make sure the lam on the bottom is clean, and then use good quality tape and lay that out so it really sticks.   You don’t want any resin seeping under the tape line.    Run a couple lines of tape and then cover the rest of the bottom with some butcher paper or the like so as to keep all the resin off of the lam.    

When you glass the deck, do it in stages.  Lay your cloth down and cut it rough around the edges, 3" or so below the apex of your rail.   Mix 1/3 of the quantity you expect to use and lay pour that out over the flats of your deck.  Pour it in thin ribbons all up and down the board so you won’t have to move it around a lot to get it to cover.  Let is seep for a minute then spread it unti you use it up.    Don’t let any of the resin drip onto the raisl, keep it on the flats.  

Now go back and fine cut your laps, only long enough to extend 1/4" or 1/2" past your tape line.  Try to cut it as cleanly as you can.  Because you already tacked the deck down you don’t have to fret the cloth moving around from where you cut it the way you do when you cut your cloth while it’s all dry.  

THEN you can mix the next 1/3 of your resin and do the rest of the flats and the laps on one side, and squeegee it over your laps while it’s still fresh.  Repeat the same on the other side.  By breaking your mix/spread into 2-3 parts you are taking all the drama out of getting your lamination even without any of it setting up before you’re finished.  It takes a lot longer to do it this way but the results will be a lot cleaner and more predictable.  

Later on after your lamination technique improves you can go back to mixing your resin in one batch and laying it out quickly and efficiently the way the pros do. 

After your fill coats, you can sand your rails by hand.    That way you’re less likely to burn through.  If you really want to take your time you can do the fill coat on the rails first (one at a time, the same way you shape them), then hotcoat the flats.   Now you don’t have drip lines and runs on your rails.   

Finish this one, surf it and have fun on it for what it is, and start planning on your next board.   They don’t have to be perfect to be fun.   

The comment about DNA aka Denatured Alchohol troubles me and indicates that you must have used Epoxy Resin to glass this board.  No matter. An attempt to save the board amounts to the same process.  Use a Stanley blade or a razor blade laying flat and attempt to cut those big wrinkles out and as flat as possible.  Use a die grinder and a 3" ROLOC disk to flatten and sand down all those wrinkles and bubbles.  Approach the sanding from above, not at an angle.  You will be less likely to hit your paint job if you do.  You may need to fill some divots, sand marks etc.  use Q-cell and a hard spreader to do that.  Sand again and put a layer of 4oz. Over the whole thing.  Hot coat and sand.  Bout all you can do.  Next time take it to a Pro Glasser.

So which side is the deck.  Do both sides have a layer of cloth?  Did you ever watch any videos on glassing?  YouTube?  You should have trimmed up that cloth.  Gee man you don’t just throw the cloth at it.  When you have big fat untrimmed laps like that, you create work for yourself.   You’re doing a freelap.  When you have all that excess cloth hanging under there, it sags.  Big fat cutlaps are for pros.  There’s a ton of dry spots too.  Just attempt to clean it up as I suggested.  PS. Figured it out I guess;  you glassed the bottom and lapped onto a painted deck?  Right?

I’m not a professional.  What I would do is sand it down with a sanding block and a coarse grit. All the way down, to remove as much of the bunched up cloth as possible. Hold the sanding block so none of it is over the foam, its all over the glass side. Touch up the paint as needed. Glass it. Then sand and clean up any remaining lumpiness, and glass again. 2 layers on the deck. Should be fine.  Had to laugh at McDing’s comments, you don’t just throw the glass at the blank, lol, pretty much my first reaction to the pics. But all fixable, to be able to finish and ride.

I’ve been asked to fix worse or at least pretty damned close.

At least one layer wasn’t on raw foam.

I didn’t  shoot an after shot.  He claims that it rides better than it looks.

What saved this guy is that he didn’t try to overlap as much cloth and did a better job of trimming it.  A beginner should cut really short/narrow laps.  Like one inch.  Barely onto the deck or bottom.  Easier to manage.  You can make a short free lap even easier by putting tape around the rail on the side that you are lapping onto.  The tape will catch the excess resin.  With a hard squeege make sure it is all pressed down and excess resin pulled off. Then just pull the tape.  No cutting.  You can also flip the blank by using wax paper.  With the freshly glassed side up;  place a piece of wax paper at each end on the fresh glass where the rack sets underneath.  With two piece of wax paper(one for each hand) grab the blank mid way and flip it over.  Then make sure your laps are good.  Wet and pressed down.  Then with wax paper in each hand again flip the board back over with freshly glassed side up.  The wax paper that you previously placed at each end will have not stuck to the rack and will remain in place therefore not pulling the wet cloth where it sat on the rack while flipped.  Gently peel the wax paper from the freshly glassed blank.  Don’t leave it on the blank.  Using this method you can flip a board and take a look at the laps underneath at anytime during the glassing process.  Next time pay more attention to your MEK Catalyst or if Epoxy be more careful with your A and B mix.

Brush a sanding coat in and around your bad lap - make sure you get it onto the foam adjacent to the cloth.  When you then sand it, that resin will prevent you from digging into your foam.  I use a 6 inch random orbit sander mounted on a Milwaukee paddle switch grinder - it doesn’t have high tip speeds.  If need be, if things start feeling dodgy while sanding, do another layer of sanding resin where needed.  Take your time, lots of time.  One of the best flight test pilots I ever worked with always said “slower is faster.”  The meaning being is that by going slower and doing it right the first time is faster in the end.