Ok, ive been building these race boards for several years now. We vac bag, infuse carbon skins to EPS. Then the board gets sanded and prepped for sealer/hot resin. We have been using a standard UV no blush epoxy from Surf Source. As far as resins go it works/ sands great. The thing about a race a race board shape is the V section on the hull, chine rails, top of bow, is getting adequate amounts of resin on these areas without it all running off. Is there another kind of resin that im not thinking of that would work better?
Hi - I've heard of people squeegeeing on a microballoon bog but that will wreck the 'nude' carbon look. Your best bet might be to apply multiple fillcoats... as soon as one coat cures to a green state, apply the next. It is possible that this kneeboard was fillcoated with bog... not positive on that.
I'm not sure why you are not using epoxy, but on my stand ups with detailed bottoms and high flat rails epoxy works great. I roll the hotcoats on with a foam roller nice and thin, then tip it out with a brush, I wait for the epoxy to set up a bit, then tip it out again. I personally would never try to use poly on those steep sided rails? It would be a dripping mess that would take ton of time to sand out.
I think epoxy is the perfect material because it is thicker than poly, and it has more work time...and you can use a roller to apply it nice and thin.
wait, I think I just read your post wrong..Did you say UV no blush epoxy? What the hell is UV epoxy? Don't you mean UV poly?
Hey, The resin i use is epoxy which has UV screens or stabilizers in it to prevent from yellowing. We use carbon on all our board so its important to maintain its integrity. We then seal that after its been sanded with a low VOC auto clear. Polyester really isnt compatible with epoxy. Thats what the chemical engineer told me. Im just trying to make our productionmore effecient. The rolling tipping is a great idea. I also started mixing my resin with paint mixer attached to my drill. Really speeds up the tack time.
Doesn't the paint mixer cause frothing and lots of bubbles? Do you warm it up first?
It does cause bubbles, but i let it sit for about 15 min and they go away. Its a slow long mixture. No more uncured resin issues. Warming up resin works great in cooler temps.
Try Kwick kick since it will kick faster less will slide off the crown area…
Deansup , I mix with a mixer blade in my drill press. then slip the container into a vacum jar hooked up to an old thrift store FOOD SAVER vacume. Takes less then a minute to pull out the air bubbles. Resinhead is right on with the foam roller and tip off with brush. I use a 2 part Auto clear coat also (Spray on) , It’s really UV resistant and never chips and easy to repair when needed. I am very happy to start hearing good info on Sways on working with Epoxy resin !!!