Can someone please tell me what went wrong? I followed all the correct Hotcoat ratios using RR. If you can see the holes, they are dry, no hotcoat there. It looks like a sponge. What do I need to do to fix it?
[img_assist|nid=1062916|title=Hotcoat 3|desc=|link=none|align=center|width=640|height=480]
[img_assist|nid=1062915|title=Hotcoat 2|desc=|link=none|align=center|width=640|height=480]
[img_assist|nid=1062914|title=Hotcoat 1|desc=|link=none|align=center|width=640|height=480] Any ideas on how to fix it?
It's some kind of contamination, most likely. Could be on the surface, could be in the brush, could be an airborne. Check the manufacturer's guides and maybe look at the epoxy glass job thread in the FAQ up top..
I agree with Mike in that it’s probably contamination, and try to figure out where the contamination is coming from. and or it could be you waited too long to hot coat and some type of blush or carbamate rise took place; that will keep the resin from ‘sticking’, and create that type mess also. What I would do is break out the sander, and some 40 or 50 grit and sand it back to flat, and reapply RR. Take the “A” side and put in the microwave for about 20 seconds and then add it to the “B” side, mix it for a couple of minutes, add a bit of additive F, and a bit of DNA, mix some more, apply and you’ll see better results.
It is not contamination it is too thick of an epoxy application PERIOD.
When you laminate one side, when the epoxy gets just past sticky, you brush(disposable 2" chip brush) on a FILLER COAT of epoxy (approximately 1 ounce per foot of normal board) and use additive F. The goal is to fill the weave with epoxy. When it is dry you flip the board, knock down the lap if necessary and repeat.
I think this lam sat for a while before the fill coat, which is not advised by anyone. bb30 is right about the thin fill coat too, beginners often try to ''paint'' the board and put on too much resin. But if this one sat, that at least contributed to the problem.
Hundreds of DIY'ers on here have used RR without these problems, but it is a chemical reaction and bonding process that doesn't happen without some care. This is your chance to live and learn :-)
The way I understand it, fish eyes are caused by contamination. A lot of times oil (skin oil or some such) or sometimes little pieces of stuff floating about in the air that breaks the surface tension of the epoxy…
Wow another one in a week…Jeez. Is this an anti RR campaign?
I don`t think you could call that a fish eye. Dirty hand could never cause a dispersement of any kid of resin from a laminate like that. That looks insane.
I think they should investigate whats going on with what ever the resin they are using.
Or some one is playing tricks here.
It sat fo a long time before the hotcoat. I had used some acetone on some spots to get rid of resin that had no hardner in it. After that I painted and hotcoated and vola fish eyes
I never use acetone with epoxy. Also. It sounds now like you worked the resin to much. You don’t paint it on. A hotcoat should be put on touched as little as possible. And left alone. Use vertical passes tail to nose than side strokes than a final walkout. Also if there was unhardenes resin still on the board that could have been your contaminate.
Hey hows it kook 420? You have me lost…What do you mean by unhardened resin? Does that mean you laminated the cloth with non catalised resin and then whacked paint on it and then hot coated?
I think you may have answered your own question here.
It sat fo a long time before the hotcoat. <<That could cause fisheys.
I had used some acetone on some spots to get rid of resin that had no hardner in it. <<That could really really cause fisheyes.
After that I painted and hotcoated and vola fish eyes. <<What kind of paint did you use, how long did you let it dry?
Also, it looks like there is some blush going on there. That is rare with RR. I have only seen that when too much hardner is used or the temp is too low.
For the un hardend resin: I follwed the Greenlights way of doing pinlines and forgot to put hardner in it and just used the resin turned out to be a disaster.
The paint: was water based acrylic that was recommend in the Greenlight packet that comes with the board kit.
Acetone: I got advice from other swaylocians, on how to remove the resin and paint sploches and they said use acetone. So there ya go.
Guess I will sand down, start over with clean everything and hope it turns out better.