i heard its 4-6 feet right now and glassy. i have class from 230-4 but the teacher no takes roll and im pretty good at understanding everythign on my own. i dont think i would be a true surfer if is didnt ditch right now.
Put your tongue on the roof of your mouth and make a sound That is the “NNNNNN” sound. Now form your lips into the shape of the barrels you will be missing and and continue to make the sound. As you change the shape of your lips that is the “OOOOOOHHHH” sound. Now do it 10x in a row and get to class. BTW, it’s blown out and small!!
“Those damn surfers! All they do is ditch class, smoke pot, and surf. When are they gonna grow up and become responsible adults?” NEVER!!!
It’s too late to offer any real advice considering that by now you are either in class or in the water.
For those of you in the Ventura area…Pipe was head high plus and glassy at noon…my wife finally saw me get barreled on a perfect left…I love riding my plastic fish…la la la la laaaaaaaaa!!!
How was the rest of the coast?
Sr Pato
Quote:
i heard its 4-6 feet right now and glassy. i have class from 230-4 but the teacher no takes roll and im pretty good at understanding everythign on my own. i dont think i would be a true surfer if is didnt ditch right now.
Since I see you posted this at 2.50 pm , you obviously got tubed this arvo …
…lucky you .
At the moment WE have all day offshores, too ! [ You’re lucky / blessed …YOU have swell to go with it , at least ?! ]
http://www.dpi.wa.gov.au/coastaldata/coastcam/scarborough-north.html
the guy doing the surf report from the Salomon masters at margaret river this morning said sets were only "chest - high , max " and it was " FLAT in between the sets ?! " The early autumn blues . Hopefully things should improve SOON . Autumn is often good …no / very low speed winds , and the occassional bit of swell. [And storms , southwards, generating it.]
ben
Stop airbrushing the waves out Chip, you know there’s surf out there, in Madagastar…
Hicksy
hutnington was overhead, but we left to go look at 54, it was bad, we then went to look at the point, it was bad, we then went to the wedge, it was headhigh on the sets with a tone of people stuck in a rip and way too many people on the berm watching (stagefright). we ended up surfing windy huntington and were left completely unstoked except for the fact that there are a ton of beuatiful girls on the beach this sunny afternoon. before going out we were waiting at a crosswalk next to an old guy. i had to pee bad so i let it go inside my wetsuit. the guy was extremely uncomfortable try to decide whether or not to dodge the stream of urine coming his way or to just ignore it and play it cool. oh well, better then being in class.
And the cosmos were altered the day that the aged
Valdemar stood aside the young american that had urine effusing from the hem of his rubber garment.In Kosovo, just a blink in time earlier, Valdemar was courting Selima the spanish flamenco dancer. He eventually followed her and his love to America carrying her bags throughout the americas on her troupe’s performance tour.
yes this had led to his naturalization as the government calls it
now his fore fathers have names like washington and jefferson yet he is related to them only by geographical coincidence
…just like that young man is now his decendant…
all because valdemar couldnt avoid getting urine on his shoe and his cane
…only on the tip and sole respectively
what a culture who in kosovo would believe this could happen in a million years,this is just one of the things you cant tell the people in the old country …they just wouldn’t understand…
…ambrose… channeling Valdemar
Russian winter. Fade to 4’10" peasant girl takng her first step on Ellis Island.
Polish winter, some time earlier. Fade to 5’2" peasant boy taking his first step on Ellis Island.
Cosmic blink of an eye, later. Fade to me surfing on Kauai.
Inconceivable.
Remembering the past as my future comes nearer.
Maybe I should pee on somebody’s shoes for old times sake. Valdemar would see it as holy water, a belated blessing and a thank you for a job well done and a life well-lived. Valdemar knew what he was doing.