Seems like every time I try to put a patch of resin down, I screw up the edge blend. The problem, the original resin is already at its proper depth. In order to make the new resin edge flat with the old resin, I have to sand across the splice line. In doing so, I take down the old resin. So my method leaves me with 2 choices. Either leave the new resin high, or sand a trench around the patch. Not a deep trench, but on a gloss coat the reflection makes it look like one. Does anyone have a better method? One that works? P.S. I read in the news, the study of daycare centers. Kids in daycare centers have a low incidence of asthma. The “researchers’” conclusion? Daycare makes kids less asthmatic! So I’ve developed this physics theory? Look at the people on longboards. They’re mostly old guys! That means riding longboards causes time to speed up. Right? Wait! Maybe riding longboards makes you live longer. …sheesh
Noodle: It used to baffle me too. The best “in print” how to on this and a very enjoyable read is the “Ding Repair Scriptures” by George Colendich. It is a must read. Onward through the fog. Take down the area around your repair with careful disc sanding or hand sanding. This is where a variable speed sander is worth it’s weight in gold. You are actually going to cut down the area around the repair so that you have removed most of the fill coat from the “good” side of the repair boundary. You overlap this area with your cloth lamination repair and then fill coat the patch. Sand to level and gloss coat or acrylic wipe to match the existing surface. If you are glossing then rub out with 400,600 etc. and re-polish the area around the repair and you should be smiling. Good Luck and spend the $10.00 for the scriptures, they are a hoot to read. Tom>>> Seems like every time I try to put a patch of resin down, I screw up the > edge blend. The problem, the original resin is already at its proper > depth. In order to make the new resin edge flat with the old resin, I have > to sand across the splice line. In doing so, I take down the old resin.>>> So my method leaves me with 2 choices. Either leave the new resin high, or > sand a trench around the patch. Not a deep trench, but on a gloss coat the > reflection makes it look like one.>>> Does anyone have a better method? One that works?>>> P.S. I read in the news, the study of daycare centers. Kids in daycare > centers have a low incidence of asthma. The “researchers’” > conclusion? Daycare makes kids less asthmatic!>>> So I’ve developed this physics theory? Look at the people on longboards. > They’re mostly old guys! That means riding longboards causes time to speed > up. Right?>>> Wait! Maybe riding longboards makes you live longer.>>> …sheesh
Thanks Tom.
Noodle - I have had the same problem. Tom’s advice is right on but if you’re having the same problem I have, it’s the feathering of the final gloss that gets you in trouble. Thinned out gloss coats on light weight boards don’t make it any easier. If you can see the texture of the cloth in the reflection (not open weave as with a sand through), it’s probably a pretty thin gloss coat. I make sure I use a piece of wood as a sanding block and try to work out from within the borders of the gloss patch. When things are wet while using the finer grits, it’s hard to tell if you’re going through. I’ve even had the weave exposed on a perfect patch just from the polishing compound. A block and being careful are the key.
Noodle - I have had the same problem. Tom’s advice is right on but if > you’re having the same problem I have, it’s the feathering of the final > gloss that gets you in trouble. Thinned out gloss coats on light weight > boards don’t make it any easier. If you can see the texture of the cloth > in the reflection (not open weave as with a sand through), it’s probably a > pretty thin gloss coat. I make sure I use a piece of wood as a sanding > block and try to work out from within the borders of the gloss patch. When > things are wet while using the finer grits, it’s hard to tell if you’re > going through. I’ve even had the weave exposed on a perfect patch just > from the polishing compound. A block and being careful are the key. Rich, You’re close to the source of my problem, thinned-out gloss/sanding coat. I pin stripped onto the glass, put on a thin hotcoat and a thinner gloss coat. Then I sanded. As I got down to the fine grits, the resin was so thin over the pinlines that it pulled off. No matter how far out I pool a resin patch now, feathering the edge re-exposes the pinline. I think I’m going to have to add another sanding/hotcoat. I just don’t like adding the weight. -Noodle
Rich,>>> You’re close to the source of my problem, thinned-out gloss/sanding coat.>>> I pin stripped onto the glass, put on a thin hotcoat and a thinner gloss > coat. Then I sanded. As I got down to the fine grits, the resin was so > thin over the pinlines that it pulled off. No matter how far out I pool a > resin patch now, feathering the edge re-exposes the pinline. I think I’m > going to have to add another sanding/hotcoat. I just don’t like adding the > weight.>>> -Noodle I’ve got a little trick I use for this problem. A few coats of good laquer,let the laquer dry real good between coats and sand with 400 and 600 grit w/d. You can rub it out(be careful), it will hide the weave and you’ll never know the difference.
I’ve done some atuo refinishes. Are you saying to refinish the entire board side with laquer, or create a laquer patch? Would Krylon clear laquer do? I have 3M catalyzed laquer too, but Krylon is cheaper and faster. If I make a laquer patch… In feathering the laquer onto the old resin, I’ll have to mask to avoid frothy overspray. At the tape line, how would feathering the laquer differ from feathering polyester resin. Does the thinness of the laquer layer make the difference? Thanks
I’ve done some atuo refinishes. Are you saying to refinish the entire > board side with laquer, or create a laquer patch?>>> Would Krylon clear laquer do? I have 3M catalyzed laquer too, but Krylon > is cheaper and faster.>>> If I make a laquer patch… In feathering the laquer onto the old resin, > I’ll have to mask to avoid frothy overspray. At the tape line, how would > feathering the laquer differ from feathering polyester resin. Does the > thinness of the laquer layer make the difference?>>> Thanks A laquer patch. When you rub out the laquer spray just do it lightly and the overspray should come off or blend in. You spray the laquer after you’ve rubbed out the finish resin.Krylon will work, but cheap laquer sometimes have a tendency to yellow.
A laquer patch. When you rub out the laquer spray just do it lightly and > the overspray should come off or blend in. You spray the laquer after > you’ve rubbed out the finish resin.Krylon will work, but cheap laquer > sometimes have a tendency to yellow. You sand the overspray off as you sand the laquer patch to level. Minimal effect on surrounding resin. I’m gonna test it. Thanks alot!