How is this glass job done

I saw a bing like this that had navy blue pigment with white stripes and you could see the weave of the cloth in the white stripes, so it didnt seem like it was white pigment.

i couldnt find the actual board, but this board is a bing and the closest i could find. any ideas of how this is done is greatly appreciated. thanks


Clear, thin stripes of resin for the stripes, laid down first.  Then the red/black white.  Squeeged minimally.

I am self taught. I do not have a teacher or mentor looking over my shoulder telling how it's done. I'm on the epoxy band wagon. I have posted lots of photos on where I'm going with epoxy color. Here's what I see in your photo....

The glass job is professional....The glass job is polyesther resin....

There is a reflection and a light refraction distorting the true view....

There is a large color cut lap comming off of the deck rapping onto the bottom.

In my small world......if you see weave in the white you are looking at white pigment not clear....and blood red is tricky

I'm not there yet but I have goals......Ray........

Here's a link to a thread getting me one step closer to the board you posted


Those stripes in the glass are done with opaque white and black resin, not clear. Someone recently shared with me a few tips on how to get very strong lines to appear in a color job and there are some tricks to doing it.

Lay the color stripes down thin, then flood over with the red tint....then pull the resin top the rails...then flood red over full board.  Done on top, done on bottom.  Clean cut lap, so you hardly grind the laps.   Potentially a 4 oz sacrificial cloth layer over the top of the whole thing, or at least clear basted laps for better sanding


Should the first flood of red be a tint and last be opaque?

and you said a sacrificial cloth layer? so you would laminate, then laminate again with the color, and then hotcoat?

So I think what RESINHEAD was referring is this. The opaque is the stripes and the red is a tint job, done very dark with alot of pigment in the resin. The lines need to have alot of pigment in them to stand out and stay sharp. The “sacrificial layer” he was referring to was the laps, I think he meant put an extra layer of cloth layed down clear to protect the laps and make them blend before sanding. He also talked about “basting” the laps with clear resin to get them to disappear before sanding and laying down your final hotcoat.


thanks a lot for clarifying.

Mr Wreck.

The first color to hit the foam wins the color battle..everytime either you want it to or not.  So with that in mind you want to do any delicate color work first, ie, those little black and white lines. Once that color hits the's done, your never removing them.

Ok  so now you got your little stripes for place for eternity on the foam....but you still have a board to color, or laminate.  So what you do is flood all the surrounding foam without little line in black and white with red tinted  you just pour the resin right over the little white and black lines, and all over the problem because the first color to hit the foam won....your little black and white lines are safe from the big bad red.   This is also predicated upon you not using 15 oz of resin to make your line. I'm talking about just enough resin to lay down a line....Somethint that is squirted out of a catsup bottle, or a 50 cc syringe..(oops let a secret out)

So now you got it all lamed up, you do the cut lap, flip and do the other side.....but now you have a lap line that is usually ground down flat before the hot coat. But your laps have little cute black and white lines in them. And if you hack through them they will disapear like beer in my fridge, except my beer doesn't taunt me like my friends that know a shitty glass job when they see one. 

So what you do now is put a thin layer of 4 oz glass over the laps and what not. This will give you a buffer that is to be sanded down almost completely. This will give you a safety space so you don't grind down your little white and black lines, this will give you a safety so you don't burn through your beautiful red tint job, this will let you get the board baby butt smooth before you lay down the hotcoat, this will allow you to get it perfect so all you have to do is pull the hotcoat tape and razor blade down the tape line.  this will also give you a deeper color mirror type look.

then you gloss and polish.


if you lay down the 4 oz cheater, you do it with clear resin, and you need to lay it down pin air free...meaning you need to lay down a slightly wetter lamination than usual.  I said olny slighter.



Now go make one.

wow, thanks, way more info than i thought i would get, thanks resinhead.


A) That board is gorgeous.

  1. Your descriptions so detailed and makes so much god damned sense it makes me think I can go duplicate that right now. And I can’t. I won’t even try. Not now anyway… Thanks.

Da Head is absolutly right on this account and technique.

...Well...I've been looking at the photo for a while....I seem to think the "white" is a little "pinkish"....So I think that the white won but the red is still very strong.....So what do ya say ResinHead? I think we need to steal one of KeithMelville's EPS blanks and go for it with Epoxy Kwick Kick......Just to prove that it can be done with epoxy...I have about 1 oz of Red tint...we're going to need more to get that blood look..........

ray, I have a bunch of tints & pigments…and blanks… come on by, not much surf this weekend anyway.


There a little bit o da devil in red boards.  They are hard to tint, and they always surf faster.


I'm game for the epoxy version.  I know we can make it shiny, I got a load ofthe good stuff the other day. Pads and polish.

How do i know....


I sprayed a EPS board with cheep Krylon Clear. $3.59 rattle can.  I polished it out same day with Perfect compound, and Perfect Ultra swirl remover.   Dam if it didn't turn out like a car finish...err, except for the over spray / orange peel from the rattle can.   But a rattle can did both sides of a surfboard......$3.59 gloss job @ retail price.

Hello Shipwreck, Clark Foam closed and I went to an Epoxy glassing seminar at Cerritos College... You guessed it....I sat down next to this tall guy with tan skin...ResinHead...We've become friends and we have an on going discussion about what can and cannot be done with color. The guy's a master glasser. Look in Quiver at boards over 7 feet.