I would really like to replicate it in some fashion. I’m completely new to this sort of thing as I have ever only completed one board.
I’m assuming a clear laminate has been done, then during the lamination stage they have used a red tint and then a black pigment to colour the area you see?
Do you reckon its easier to just paint on a water based acryclic as I’m using PU with UV cure?
...Some people on Sway's think I'm their best friend.....some people think I'm an A Hole.......I just want to spend the rest of my life surfing 3-5 foot San Diego waves.........Hey Dallasf....go back and read this thread....
I was looking for a thread that would help you do resin panels and I found that thread...............a starting point.....So first we need to learn how to mix resin and do cutlaps. And then we can learn how to spraypaint and do resin work......It's going to take a few boards..........You want to have it all on board number 2.........Go for it.....contact me later, I'm really good with repairs and fin installs.....
Ambrose has got it, it’s called “roll and tip”. Roll on the paint and nock the bubbles down with the tip of a dry brush by lightly dragging the brush over your work.
To get this tint your mix up the colors you want to use and do it in your lamination. You do the rest of the board clear and pour the color on the area you want it in and squegee it.
is paint easier? Yes. but i love the look of the resin mixing together.
Barry Snyder knows waaaay more about shaping and glassing than I will ever know. I’ve seen his boards both online and in person and they look awesome. But I am going to disagree (and probably give you some bad advice, so read on at your own risk). Glassing is nothing like riding a wheelie on a motorcycle. It may be more difficult to do right, but you are unlikely to get hurt. The worst that can happen? You ruin a blank, ok, I suppose its possible to start a fire. More likely you’ll have a janky looking, but water tight glass job. The translucency of tinted pigment looks awesome, I really like the contrast against the opaque white on the board you linked, so if that’s what you want- do your homework and go for it, even if the laps are sloppy, even if the colors are off, who cares? (be careful with red, unless you like pink).
The worse it looks, the more people will suspect its a garage job, and the more you will get to talk about it.
I waited till #4 to mess with pigment. It didn’t turn out the way I wanted, and I made some major mistakes (most of which involved the clear resin), but in the end, it was worth it.
That board has white in the lam as well. No clear on that board. As Barry suggested that lamination technique is more advanced but certainly possible. I would suggest a foam stain or paint. Either one will work fine, but be aware, red likes to run.
If you’re doing acryllic, consider diluting the paint. I just used water. The last board I made has large, black acryllic stripes under light teal pigment, and I’ve been riding it all summer without issue. I made sure to stain the foam, more than make a solid layer of paint on it. If you make a thick, solid layer you might have resin issues. I also roughed mine up with sand paper, after letting it thoroughly dry, because I was going for a rough look anyway.
That was my second board, and I’ve done pigments on both of them. I have not attempted a swirl, cause it would likely turn brown or something. I’ve seen it done in person though. Tints seem a bit harder, because the translucency will probably show mistakes or areas or more tint much more than pigment. Never done one of those either.
I think this time around I’m going to paint on with a small roller as the process of this pigment/tint could be way out of my league for my second board.
I just have two questions so I don’t have to ask again:
If painting on acrylic is there anything specific I need to look for at the art store? I know it must be water based, but want the best look.
What ratio of acrylic to water should I focus on? 10%, 50%?
Also, just to clear it up. If I bought a pigment white and black, these are opaque correct?
If I bought a tint and added either white or black pigment they would no longer be transparent?
I just got whatever the store had paint-wise, and you don’t need much either. I bought way way way more than I needed. And I didn’t go for a specific ratio either, this was done rather unscientifically. Basically, just grab an offcut of foam and test. You really only need to stain the foam, a thick layer will probably not play nice with the resin. Mine was probably somehwere a bit less viscous than peanutbutter, but not quite water yet. Don’t want to soak the blank. I was doing eps, not sure how it would behave on a pu blank.
Pigments are opaque, but if you use a bit less they have some degree of transparency. Not like a tint, but I can see my black stripes through the teal, which produced the intended dark/light teal striping. I used way less on the bottom, and it’s more of a clear cut black and the white has a light teal color to it.
I say go for it! It’s NOT hard contrary to what you may hear and I guarantee
(well, a qualified guarantee) that you will be happier with a resint tint. You
won’t get anything resembling the look of a resin tint by using paint. And it
really doesn’t complicate anything. Lamination itself is the hardest part. I
painted my first board (actually my son and I painted it) with acrylic. It
looks like, well, it was painted with acrylic. My second board was a brown and
“coke-bottle” striped resin tint using uv resin. I used OPAQUE
pigment but literally put a pin-drops worth of blue pigment (i barely touched
the pigment with a stir stick) in my resin for the coke-bottle and mixed up a
dark brown using more pigment (it was still tranluscent). The board is 9’6 and
striped alternately with coke-brown and coke-bottle blue/green. The colors WILL
NOT MIX.
Put one color down and the next will be “resisted” by the
first. Use 2 buckets (obviously) and 2 squeegees. In your case I’d start at the nose with clear resin. Pour the resin,
squeegee it to the point where you want the second color. Then pour a
small amount of the second color on the glass, squeegee it to and
slightly over the clear resin. Repeat with the next color (or clear).
You’ll get that Thomas
Campbell X Michel Junod look with slight color overlap and a slightly wavy line. You can even add “drips” of one color
on the blank, squeegee the next color over it and it will NOT run together. Do
it. You’ll be happy you did. BTW if you are using a dark color like black (I
used opaque black resin on a color panel on another board) I would suggest adding a small amount of
catalyst. Also, when you do your sanding coat the dark areas will absorb heat
when you put the board out in the sun. I got some pin holes in the dark areas
which I would attribute to this.
Also…I only use pigment (not tint). You just use much less of it
…oh yeah the cut laps…this is how I did it. You’ll find much better info elsewhere on swaylocks but also disagreements about how it should be done.
use blue tape (or 3M green which is heat resistant —btw use that on the rails when you do your hot and gloss coats. i learned the hard way and had to rub the tape adhesive off my rails after the resin catalysed) and run the tape parallel to the rails and as far back from the rails as you want your laps to be wide. I eyballed my tape line but a glasser i know uses a tool he made to run along the outside of the rail and make a consisitent 2 1/2 inch (or so) mark on the foam to run his tape along. Next cover the foam blank inside your tape line with red rosin paper or wax paper so you don’t get pigmented resin on the foam and tape that off. Make sure your glass is wide enough to go past the taped-off line and onto the tape or paper itself. You are going to cut along the tape to make a clean lap.
Then lam your board, squeegeeing the glass down and over the tape. Bring it out into the sun for a few seconds to let it begin to catalyze. you don’t want the resin to go off completely. Bring it back inside. Put it upside down on your racks (make sure they are clean – i covered mine with plastic). Using a sharp razor blade cut through the fiberglass and into the foam along the tape. Pull the cut fiberglass and tape off. There may be places where the glass pulls up or where the overlapping glass protrudes (on the nose or tail)…you can sand that off later after the resin kicks.
Your lap will protrude slightly from the level of the foam. There are many techniques to deal with this. I think I settled in a combination of sanding and gntly “pushing” the edge of the lap flush with the foam
Will it be perfect? no…but if you’re carefull it can be close (isn’t that why pin lines were invented?) I have 3 more or less $1000 logs that are not pinlined. There are places you can see the cut marks on the laps.
