How to AVOID a ProBox MELTDOWN in EPS/EPOXY

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PB-Larry,

this is a very detailed pictorial and description of how to install your boxes in EPS correctly. Does your current directions go into this detail how to do it right? I am looking at the directions of the original boxes from years ago, received the obsolete router bit and in my opinion bad directions. I consulted the original owner for advice and clarification regarding EPS thinking no testing was done on EPS. I was assured they were tested and worked fine on eps. After 3 bring backs on ripped out boxes and recognizing the problem, I made modifications to remedy the situation and essentially stopped routinely using PB.

My question is this. Does your company have any obligation to me for the obviously wrong install directions for EPS, too big of router bit and the 20 plus sets of old boxes that I still have. Can I use the directions you post with my old bit and boxes with success??

Thanks for the clear, precise and easy to follow directions you posted.

Hi OTAY, Nice to have you join in, always find your posts some of the most interesting. Sorry you had some bad luck installing ProBoxes in EPS.

Not sure what happened before I took over ownership of ProBox but I will be happy to help you out. First thing is I would like your old inventory and I will replace it with new inventory. This way I feel secure the Product being ProBox is all present generation. This includes your install jigs also and router bit.

As for our directions on the website, they are pretty close to my pics. The video could be and is in the process of being updated.

Please send your old stuff to the Mariposa address on the Website and I will be happy to get you back in a positive mode using ProBox.

Look forward to hearing from you soon and I am glade this thread helped you out. Mahalo,Larry

craftee, Thought I would share a pic of Roger Hinds doing the ProBox installs very similar to you, except he uses a squeeze bottle. With No Peel and Stick covers.

Mahalo, Larry

www.ProBoxfinsystems.com

In these Pics below Roger Hinds of Country Surfboards uses my technique, which is a stir stick on Royce’s board of Billabong. Royce then took this Board to South Africa for the Billabong event and rode it in double over head surf at J Bay.

Roger is dropping the resin from the jig side down between the dam of the ProBox and the inside of the jig. This way any excess resin will land on the jig and not in the box. This is a easy method when you are doing a one special board RUSH to catch a plane.

www.ProBoxfinsystems.com


yeah i like squeeze bottles but they dont work as good with thick putty.

ive been wanting to use a thick resin (not a putty) for some time and with the squeeze bottle it should be a breeze.

it sounds to me like the gap between the jig and box could be called a ‘MOAT’ :slight_smile:

‘ProBox Moat’

IMO your SYSTEM is very well thought out.

do you happen to have a link to the luer lock tips you’re using?

I have been trying to use syringes unsuccessfully…my tips are too small.

are these squeeze bottles just throw aways or are you guys rinsing and

reusing?

Thanks for the reply and offer. I hope I can be as considerate and helpful to the customers I serve as you are to yours.

note, he also responds well to offerings of food.

afoaf,

You can reuse the sqeeze bottles by rinsing with acetone, then leave the bottle about half full of acetone until you use it again. Just swish it around, empty it, and let the inside dry out before filling it with resin.

You can buy just about any size you need from Hastings Plastics. www.hastingsplastics.com

Doug

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note, he also responds well to offerings of food.

Love those Sub Sandwiches (-: Mahalo,larry

Here’s a pic of the ProBoxes when the jigs are removed. When prep properly the finish work is easy as you can see.

www.ProBoxfinsytems.com


Make sure to add this final step to make sure your board balances out properly before you get it back in the water.

Duct tape this to the nose so the whole board will be underwater, instead of just the tip of the nose bobbing in the surf.

All those years of learning how to duck dive… wasted. But wait, didn’t Taj Burrows win Bells last year by weights put in the front of his board? Who would of thought?

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All those years of learning how to duck dive... wasted. But wait, didn't Taj Burrows win Bells last year by weights put in the front of his board? Who would of thought?

yeah, but his tail can flex because it’s got FCS in it, otherwise wouldn’t work at all.

…snicker…

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Make sure to add this final step to make sure your board balances out properly before you get it back in the water.

Duct tape this to the nose so the whole board will be underwater, instead of just the tip of the nose bobbing in the surf.

OUCH!!!

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Make sure to add this final step to make sure your board balances out properly before you get it back in the water.

Duct tape this to the nose so the whole board will be underwater, instead of just the tip of the nose bobbing in the surf.

Hey Bammbamm808,

Are you referring to the added weight of installing 5 ProBoxes? IMHO a few more ounces is more than worth it for the option to ride the same board as a TRUE thruster, quad, twin, or five fin. (TRUE meaning the ability to set the fin placement and cants for the best performance from a particular fin set up)

Plus, I pop a couple Probox Zero Buoyancy inserts into the boxes I’m not using to fill the box slots -the weight is offset in the water. Even better there is no drag or vacuum effect from open boxes quickly passing over water.

Now, if you’re comparing the weight of one fin sytem to another you also have to account for the amount and weight of resin used to install each box or plug. It’s a system.

Comparing FCS to ProBox to Futures to Lokbox to 4way to RedX to O’Fish’L is like apples to oranges to bananas to pineapple to mango to grapefruit to cherries.

I think it’s great to have so many fin system choices these days. Everyone can choose what works best for them.

Take it easy,

~Brian

I can’t tell the true nature of that comment as I don’t know the backstory, but I had

the chance to hold that board with the boxes installed (and the tailpad on the back)

and it was not tail-heavy like your anchor analogy would imply.

it’s unscientific, and I’m untrained, but I could balance the board on my hand at the

widepoint and apex of the rocker.

it did get me thinking…I’ve got access to a scale, I’ll weight the board without boxes

and with boxes just to see.

No offense, but I’m sure I got more piss in my bladder than those boxes weigh…

Plus, I think I saw a new fcs box that was just that, not two plugs…

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Make sure to add this final step to make sure your board balances out properly before you get it back in the water.

Duct tape this to the nose so the whole board will be underwater, instead of just the tip of the nose bobbing in the surf.

I suspect bambam is just messing around…but from my observation…the weight should be measured after intallation and I suspect we are only talking a couple of GRAMS!!

So it’s certainly not worth making much of a big deal when it comes to weight added to a surfboard. A surfboard already weighing around six pounds for a shorty or more for a longboard.

Much to do about not much. Not to mention…there is an argument that can be made for slightly heavier surfboards keeping momentum through turns. Overly light is over rated.

After the jigs are removed we will sand the ProBoxes to finish. Sand all the boxes first but not all the way down. I learned a trick from John Belik when it comes to sanding ProBoxes in a EPS, that is beware of the heat generated by staying in one area to long sanding.

Mahalo,Larry


I don’t use a grinding disc when sanding, instead I use a Power Pad with 80 grit paper to sand each box down. Change the paper after each box because the Epoxy gums up the sand paper.