I was testing to see if glueing a mat would be durable enough so I glued 7 different materials together and left them outside in the sun and rain since 2013.
In truth I kinda forgot it was there but I found it today and I’m amazed that all the fabrics are as solid as the day I glued them. Not really surprising considering the glue is the same used on rescue inflatables around the world but it’s good to know that a glued mat will stand the test of time even if you leave it outside for a few years !!
There’s a new mat in the planning, I’m tapering the I beams from front to back and pulling the front planshape in to reduce the front buoyancy. And curving the outline at the tail to create more hold.
Not sure whether to do it in coloured fabric or clear vinyl ?
I want the mat to be an exact set of dimensions but usually when you inflate a mat because it gets thicker it means the outside dims shrink by varying degrees, it loses more width % than length.
So I’ve got the finished outline that I want, and the mathematically enlarged one that will be the actual size of the uninflated mat.
The cleaner which is plumbers prep that you can get in any hardware store.
And a roller but you could use a block of wood or dowel.
The prep cleans the area to be joined, the glue melts the surfaces so they join to create one piece and the roller smooths the join and pushes out any air bubbles.
It’s the same techniques used to join plumbing pipes.
Interesting news with the glue ups. My heat welded (with heat gun and roller) mats didn’t like sitting in a hot car and the welds did rip apart after a long time sitting in the sun. I would consider trying glue again but I’ve since put mats on the back burner, mainly due to the fact that I still cannot get a tight seal that doesn’t contain folds/creases. Too bad…
Surfoils…I tell you what i’d be interested in a Mat kit…I was just going to cut down a camp bed mattress and install a Cabrhina airlock valve to see how it goes…lol
Monkstar, when you try the glue it’s a lot easier because you bring the two surfaces together as quickly or carefully as you like and there’s a bit of time before it sets so you can get it right even if it’s going wrong. Did you draw a plan to make your mat or just create it ?
If you’re thinking of making a mat , the best point to start from is understanding the parts.
PIC 1. The red lines are the internal I-beams and the green is the top and bottom layers.the only other design component in a basic mat is air.
PIC 2. Inside the mat the pressure on the I-Beams are equal so they are always straight.
PIC 3. But the pressure on the outside surfaces are uneven because the inside pressure is higher than the atmospheric pressure and that’s what makes the outside of the mat round, the higher internal pressure makes the mat pop out to create the biggest curve possible.
PIC 4. The taller the I-Beams, the thicker the mat from deck to hull and the more material you allow for the rails the bigger the rails. That’s about all you need to know.
But to actually start making a mat you need to make a plan so grab a piece of paper and a pencil.
Actually before we design a mat I’ll show how easy it is to glue one together.
Of course you need to have everything ready, a clean, clear, well ventilated workspace and some safety gear or your nuts will fall off later. Use gloves even double gloves.
Pic 1/2/3. Getting two pieces to join evenly takes a little care, I line the edges up and peg around to hold it all in position, it means you don’t have issues with stretching fabric if you take it one section at a time, get it right and then move on. My glued area are 1 " wide so I’ve already marked the line inside the join so I get the glue lines smooth.
Then evenly apply the glue and position the two pieces together.
Roll over the join to remove air bubbles but remember you’re not trying to exorcise a demon, gently will do… And excess pressure with the roller will make the top fabric push and stretch over the under layer making for buckles when it sets.
So carefully and gently with the roller or just run your fingers along the join not across.
Move around the perimeter and when complete leave it for a day in a warm environment to cure. When it’s fully set, it will never part.
All joins are the same…take the time to think about what you’re doing, measure it out, clean, position, apply the glue, roll and leave it alone for a day or more. Now onto design…
Brilliant…I’m gonna have a go once I finish everything else that needs doing. I like the asymmetric idea although I got a little worked on “mypaipoboards” associated with my own build ideas for an asymm paipo…which after finishing it off works very well by the way on both long and short rail.
Dave - I have gone through this thread and adjusted the pictures, shrinking them a bit when called for, and flipping them right-side-up when called for. I know the size doesn’t affect everyone, but it does affect some of us, and this thread deserves to be seen by all. Have also done the same with the SMR thread, which may or may not be related, ha!
