The internal structure is what gives the mat it’s inflated shape, it could be beams / strips / wires but whatever you use it needs to be accurately done.
This mat has only 45 internal strips connecting the deck and hull.
They start as 1 inch wide flat strips, then define the height (4 inches) and make a folded tab at both ends to glue to the skins. To create the folded tabs, I use a warm iron. The vinyl is a thermoplastic so fold it, heat and hold and when it cools the fold is sharp and permanent.
Glue the tabs to both skins as accurately as you can and when you’re done it’s almost finished.
This is by far the most comprehensive demonstration on mat construction ever… anywhere. I don’t think it’s a topic that has even been considered for mass consumption.
Greg, I think I’ve gone way past what’s considered ‘appropriate’ on a Surfmat.
But I could do almost anything requested. For the leash I’d probably add something to the outside rather than punch a hole in it somewhere.
I’ve done the 2nd sealing technique on the front and the 3rd at the back. The only difference with sealing the ends is that the middle will pull in and create a concave on the sides.
Not a traditional mat, but John seemed fascinated by the other clear mat so he can have his own one now.
All the construction marking were on the outside so I’ll clean it up, test that it’s airtight over a few days and then take it down for a ceremonial baptism at my local beach and then post it off.
John, your surfmat is guaranteed airtight and ready to go.
I gave it a quick baptism in the shore here in Australia, then asked my teenage son to gently roll and wrap it and then he says he didn’t wipe it dry so it will arrive with Australian sea salt as a garnish !
Should’ve put a leash loop on it because it kinda blends in with the wave foam. Hope you don’t lose it !
Thanks so much for sharing your exploration into the build side of surf mats. I’ve been mating for a little over 5yrs, and wasn’t exactly sure what was going on inside my new favorite surfcraft.
SMAD, That’s great that you’ve enjoyed the thread. I whip up a new mat design now and then so if you’ve got an idea or want more mat build info, just ask.
I had a go at building one of these. It ended up a bit too wide, I reckon. It’s heat-sealable nylon, 200 denier on the deck and 70 denier underneath. I got a valve from a $2 beach ball and found that the glue on the fabric would bond to the pvc very well. Not yet tested, but I’ll probably add some polyurethane deck grip.
Did you have any problem with folds or creases while you were ironing it? Have you laid down on it yet? If it can hold your weight on land, it’ll work in the water.
It went together pretty easily, only one spot where I had to deal with a tiny crease. I tacked the perimeter together to try and minimise that problem before going around and sealing it all up. I still ended up with an area on one of the corners where I ended up with a bit too much fabric. The glue is fairly thick, so you can get away with a tiny crease without leaks. It holds my weight without any bad noises.
Also, the beach ball valve is terrible. It is way too small. I haven’t even bothered inflating by mouth, it would take forever. I’ll need to find something bigger to allow me to realistically deflate the mat.
Based on current inflation levels you won’t need to inflate it very much. But a fatter valve helps. If you Google around for valve companies they have sent me a dozen free valves in several sizes. And 36 free valves goes a long way !
The heat sealable nylon is great if you hit the right temp so you’ve done a great job .
I always leave my mats partially inflated because it’s the long time they spend deflated that induces creases and splits in the fabric…theyre meant to hold a rounded shape.
( interestingly the name NYLON is a composite of the inventors location of New York and LONdon )
Well, I’ve briefly tested the mat. It survived a few floggings without major failure, although the ends of a couple of the ribs came partially unstuck. I think I’ll combine fixing these with opening the mat up to reduce it’s overall size and add a better valve. Coming from a thin plywood paipo as my main board, my conclusions are that the mat is a real workout to paddle through waves, quite fast and I have no idea how to control it. I only got a few waves, so more testing is needed.
I noticed a slight tendency for the nose to roll downward, which created drag and felt sketchy, Is this underinflation or a design flaw?
