I wonder how many people here first ran across Steve Pirsch’s thread or website or whatever it is when they first went looking (and ended up here), and did it help, and what would you suggest as edits in or out if you could?
I must have read and re-read that how-to 10 times before I did my first board…Im pretty sure thats how I found this place.
it helped quite a bit but reading all that didnt do too much for me until I had the stuff in front of me and used it; that said my first board wasn’t such a triumph in the glassing dept., but I figured it out after a harsh learning curve laminating the bottom side…then I hotcoated the whole thing with lam resin…that worked out well too!
reading helped a lot but doing was the biggest help of all; a million thanks to steve and his site!
I did…He gave me the courage to try it (with marginal success but not Steve’s fault, I didn’t take his advice). I read constantly to see if anyone has tried his shape recommendations ( 8’, fat, thick)
I came across that site sometime in the last couple of years. I think the whole thing is littered with nonsense. While I don’t have the time or inclination to list specifics, I’ll just quote his thoughts on “optimum” board design. Take a good look at the numbers, and tell me if this guy is credible, in any way.
"
We believe we have created a design that turns easily at low speeds, creating very little drag in the turn. This board catches waves like a long - longboard, but is 2’ - 3’ shorter, and turns easily twice as fast.
This design is 7’ - 8’ long, and 3" - 4" thick, (depends on surfers weight) with about 2/3 of the total thickness available 1’ from the nose and tail. It is 14" - 16" wide at the outside tips of the rounded fish tail. The tail 1’ from the end is 20&3/4" - 21&1/2". The nose 1’ from the end is 20" - 20&3/4". The center width is 25" - 26". The nose rocker is 5". The tail rocker is 1&1/2". The twin fins are molded 7" cutaways (actual dimension - 7&!/2") cut down to 6&1/2". The fin box is a 7&1/2" Fins Unlimited type (with this box the fins can be adjusted to a maximum of 13&1/2" - from the tail end of the board to the trailing fin edge). The board turns much looser with the fins all the way towards the nose. The bottom and top are very flat rail to rail. The rails are almost perfectly round everywhere (much better for choppy conditions). I also have two experimental boards: 7’6" x 28", and 7’ x 30", with nose and tail measurements similar to the above mentioned boards. "
edit: BY THAT QUOTE I JUST REALIZED I ACTUALLY KNOW THIS GUY AND HAVE SURFED AND TALKED WITH HIM SEVERAL TIMES AT SURFSIDE, TX OVER THE LAST 5 YEARS – HE IS SUPER NICE, AND CATCHES AND RIDES TONS OF THE CRAPPY WAVES AROUND HERE WITH HIS PRETTY WIFE OR GF AND THEY HAVE A BLAST BY THE LOOKS OF IT –
the cutaway fins allow him to turn those boards pretty flat
nice guy – duh, I only knew him as Steve before – good man
his designs are not for everyone obviously but his site is a very cool public service
I read that and the Parmenter one thoroughly several times… and remember www.anthwind.com? That was one of the first ones I saw with board design info. Personally, my first board was a Harbour Transitional that was badly damaged so I reshaped it… then bought the “Surfboard” book with the Green cover by Steven Shaw, and bought all the templates that were offered. That was my start… Oh, and that Cheesey VHS “How To Build A Surfboard” by “CB” Charlie Baldwin… those got me going back in day…
I would recommend it as required reading before anyone attempts building one of their own. Some of his tips are priceless… riding every board you can before trying to design your own, sanding too little is better than sanding too much, using more resin than Greg Loehr recommends, etc.
The small wave design already mentioned should be one of the boards ridden before trying to design your own. It is out of the box but a completely valid principle.