Nothing new here but I took a couple of pictures and thought some of the newbs here would benefit.
I wet sanded the box to exactly perfectly flush with the board for starters. Then a light 220 sanding around the box.
Some have fretted over laying wet glass over an open slot and having resin drip in. I used to fill the slot with gelatin and fell really cleaver, but lately I’ve just been laying 4 oz glass pre wetted and scrapped of excess resin. Pic’s below.
A light fill coat and some sanding and we are all good.
All the best
If I’m worried, I fill the slot with flour or bisquick as much as possible then lay a thin layer of wax over that. I save partially used birthday candles for this, but I’ve also used old wax scraped off boards I keep that in a tin cup.
I use this technique to cap proboxes, and I fill the screw holes after seating them down. I cut out the hole carefully with a razor knife then heat up a fin box key to get to them later.
if your going to cap them why not use a futures LB box that’s designed for it and you can just tape off easily without any problems.
Charlie, good point. I have that equipment and have mostly done it that way, lately. But I had a few of the old boxes and most ppl won’t spend the several hundred dollars it takes for the one pass bit, template and a large router. So, and since I took a few pictures, I thought some might like to see how easy it can be the old way.
all the best
Because they are ugly as sin… at least that’s my reason why.
God awful ugly.
Soooo ugly hahaha.
I’ve been using a layer of nonwoven against the box with a layer of woven over that. I want the adhesion of the non-woven.
Shark, I like bisquik. Very clever.
I like to use Probox because of the cant inserts and the forward/backward adjustments. I have used FCS fusion recently prelam, but I haven’t tried prelam long center boxes. I found that many of the boards I do are not perfectly flat rocker wise where the box is, and I figure that you sand through the glass when you need to sand down the box.