How to do airbrush fade

I always have problems when i try to fade a color from solid to fade to white foam. I just airbrushed a longboard solid red on the rails and tried to fade it to white in the center of the deck but the fade always looks crooked and a little uneven. What am i doing wrong?

JTroy, I hope you realise that red is the most difficult to fade, generally has the strongest pigmentation, and is hell with over spray getting on anything it can touch. My more successful red fades were presprayed white first, it seemed to help a bit, but only a bit. Also depends on your gun size and quality, and of course your spraying experience. Use a lower pressure, smaller fan, and reduced paint volume. And concentrate on a very smooth and even arm action, takes practice on a longboard as you have to walk, not just stand. Clear all distractions and don’t stop midway to look where you are going, any interuption to the action will effect the spray, especially with red. Watch where the paint hits the board at all times. Be smooth, have fun.

J: It also helps to keep the gun somewhat higher off the board than you normally would for other spraying. It depends on the gun and the tip, but 12" to 18" is a good average. Doug

I can only tell you what works for me. First I fade from inside out. I have found that if I go light center and work towards the rails (dark) get get a more even fading. If you are fading the whole board then I would use a larger gun then if I was just doing detail work or a fade just along the rail. Like Wildly said you will get some overspray in the middle and everywhere else. A vivid white center isn’t very appealing anyway! If you are going to fade fade all the way. If you can turn your board on its rail and spray middle to bottom then flip the board and work middle to bottom again. For the first time hold your gun further away then usual and lower than usual this way you only get a misting until you get use to the spray pattern. Again like Wildly said, using a smooth arch and a consistent distance from gun to object helps. This only comes with time!

The key I found to doing even fades is to make a number of very light passes putting a minimal amount of paint out on each pass. If you goof up on a pass it’s usually correctable with the next pass. That way you avoid the streaking and blotchy look that’s hard to avoid doing a one pass job. Also, know when to say stop. Most guys will overwork fades and it shows.

Good point Gary. I now also remeber, it’s been a while, start by spraying the lightest colour first over half to two thirds of the fade area. Then adding some colour to the gun, passing over around the halfway then further down. Keep doing this working your way through the fade. Completely spray to the end of the fade when you think your about two tones from the final colour. Then the edge of the fade will be the rich final colour and not too wide and overpowering.

Thanks guys

Howzit J.Troy, It’s always a good idea to spray a coat of white before doing a fade. The reason is that the lighter part of the paint is just overspray and basically is just a dusting which doesn’t really adhere to the blank, but will adhere to the white paint. After you’ve finished the spray give it a coat of clear acrylic to set it. I didn’t do either on my first fade (long time ago) and when I laid it up the dust paint did a smear and it was pretty ugly. Never had a problem since. Aloha, Kokua

I use a mix of titanium white and netural peril white.Darn thing is it matches the blanks so well it’s hard to see the trees from the forest.Herb

Oh Yeah. you can just pre-coat the blank w/ Future floor sealer,smells good too!Herb