In this case a zip-lap would be taking a layer of glass and draping it on the top, and lamming up to the rail apex. You don’t even cut the cloth, just let it hang, then when its B-stage trim it with a razor, like a zipper. After it dries sand to fair into bottom layer in the rail, and if you do it right, no visible transitions. Visualize a colored full to rail deck patch. Then another stage is a clear layer of cloth over and in the end it looks so much cleaner, than a bottom trim.
Painted blank. Brushed technique. Painted the stringer as well. Then a layup in a tint of same color or shade. The deck was zipped as GR stated. Then a clear layer of four ounce over every thing. The laminate/logo is applied under the final clear. Four ounce will keep the weight down. Laps in four ounce disappear.
Why would you see the stringer if you planed it flush, painted over it and tinted or opaqued the lam. The only reason I say this is that I have done a few this way myself and you could not see the stringer. I guarantee you nobody's flockin' around tintin' hot coats in a pro glass shop.
There's nothing to be confused about. I could get the same fininsh using the method I described above. In fact I could do so many variations on that finish it would make your head spin like Linda Blair.
