Ray, you now have a lot of choices for signing off... Ray, Stingray, ThinSkinRay, or TSR (could be thin or thick).
I just installed a long box into a stringerless EPS board using a similar technique, but I wish I saw this first, I could have done my leash plug in one step. I also add another piece of cloth on the bottom of the box for more strength since it is stringerless.
Always great to learn something new.
For the guy asking about doing this without power tools... I've used razor blades, knives, and chisels, to get through the glass, then chisels for the stringer and razor blades or knives to cut down into the foam, then back to the chisel to cut it all out. I'm sure that a lot of old timers did the same.
Routers are so much easier. My router jig is designed to fit the base of the router so I have one for a large base router and the smaller laminate cutter type.
For the guy asking about doing this without power tools... I've used razor blades, knives, and chisels, to get through the glass, then chisels for the stringer and razor blades or knives to cut down into the foam, then back to the chisel to cut it all out. I'm sure that a lot of old timers did the same.
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Four decades ago, I used a single edged razor blade, a razor knife, a pocket knife, a chisel and hammer to install a fin box. But, I would install the fin box into the shaped foam before glassing. I would tape the fin slot and laminate over the taped box. Then I would trim the saturated cloth from over the taped fin slot with a single edged razor blade when the resin had gelled but was not solid.
Hey BG I hate to admit it but I did the same thing at about the same time, but unlike you I am not proud of it. Maybe, I should be. Routers with the proper jigs ,and carbide, not high speed steel bits do such a cleaner job, and this is about putting in center fin boxes. The days of the variset, and waveset systems are gone, hate to be the one to tell you that. A couple of years ago I was cruising around with Bill Bahne in his smoke laden car, and brought up how I thought it genius that he invented a box system that was still be used so much later. His response went pretty much like this: “It is not genius at all, surfers are generally cheap, and since they already have a couple of older fins why would they want to get a new board, that the old fins would not work in?” I still think it was genius. Count me officially out of this post. And I hope you enjoyed everyone’s contributions.
Ghettorat....thanks for playing....I had fun. Thin Skin Ray sure beats Gay Ray and Bufflehead and some other nick names I've had in the past. RaymeBaybe was the worst ever! I'm looking forward to more posts from you in the future.
Bg Sufrer...I'm the type of person that would do a no power tools install just to prove I could do it....but my 20 year old router works just fine.
I tried three different fins in the new finbox install. The Rainbow fin was a little bit tight but OK. The TrueAmes and the Fibre Glas Fin Co fins were a little bit loose. It's not a big deal. I will modify the fin before I modify the box. A loose fin can be fixed with paper or the thin cardboard from that beer carton you just threw in the recycle bin.
I did some major hack jobs when I was first learning to do fin boxes. Most of my problems were due to using the wrong tools and to bad sandpaper. Dull sandpaper creates heat. Too much heat is bad. Using a 7 or 8 inch power pad when the job requires a 2 inch angle grinder can cause problems. I was patching my screw ups one day and I saw something on Swaylock's about capping fin boxes. So I started capping my boxes. I don't think it's too much stronger. It takes extra time.
I like to "seal the deal". 90% of the surfboards I glass have a gloss coat or second hot coat....and caps on the boxes....
I'm not making any money building surfboards...............
MarkSSD glassed the green longboard at my place. I installed the center fin box and the FCS plug in front of the box. I used left over resin from the glass job to cap the box. The tail patch / box cap was combined with the tail block install. All done with cut laps. This green longboard is by far my best ever fin box install....Live and learn
When The Going Gets Tough**
Carbide drill bits are among the strongest drill bits available for home use. Carbide drill bits are more expensive than steel or titanium coated drill bits, but will last longer and stay sharper.
Carbide drill bits are absolutely necessary when drilling stainless steel or other high-density materials. No other drill bit can handle the job.
Regardless of the material that you usually drill, a carbide drill bit will last up to 25 times longer than a common steel bit. This can make carbide drill bits an economical choice for woodworking, furniture building or other large-scale projects.
When cutting dense material, use a cutting lubricant to avoid generating excessive heat. Overheating a carbide drill bit will shorten its lifespan. Always let the drill bit do the work. Applying too much pressure will quickly dull your drill bit.
To come on here and offer advice on how you do things should be appreciated and respected. Even if you don’t agree. and if you don’t, be humble and explain why. But coming in and blasting someone with good intentions and then namedropping and spewing a bunch of garbage gets you kook status in my book.
Eh Kokua, I was an Aviator guy for a long time. Got my first pair from my dad, his old gold frames with the hooks around the ears. I went through about 4 pairs of frames with prescription lenses. Always used the hooks around the ear type when I was news cameraman. They only fall off if you get hit in the face.
Today I have the newer slimmer version of the wayfarer. My regular glasses have Ray-Ban frames too.
My dad was a plane mechanic during WW 2 and would liberate the pilots glasses from the cockpit. I still have one pair of Ray-Ban aviators from that era. They have served me well.
Howzit sharkcountry, I know which ones you are wearing and they are my 2nd favorite ones. I like the Wayfarers since they are the "Blues Brothers" look except I like the non-black ones but can't remember the name of the color right now. THey used to cost $29 but now it's $89 a pair.Aloha,Kokua
Interesting experience I had recently was a pretty dull steel bit on a plunge router… I happened to make the initial plunge 1/4" into the stringer with a pretty dull bit… Then I smelled burning and there was a puff of smoke.
So, I stopped the router and looked and the damn stringer had an ember on it was was nearly on fire – melting the foam! I smashed out the embers and then made sure to take my time on the stringer and to plunge into the foam… By the time I went an inch into the foam, I had cut all the melt/burn out.
