Hey everybody! I’m curious about how the logos are applied on boards with pigmented resin. Is it put on during the hot coat or by some other method. Usually I advocate learning the hard way, but I made enough mistakes on my last board to last me a while.
here’s a tip: put the logo on top of the lam but before hotcoat. You will need two layers of 4 ounce cloth. The first layer should just cover the size of the logo, and be square or rectangular in shape. It is a good idea to pull the threads off the outline of this cloth patch, kind of like a fringe carpet. The second piece should be much larger than the first but shape is not important as it gets sacrificed.
Put down lam resin, then logo. Generous amounts so there’s no chance at bubbles. Lightly squeegee and back-pedal resin over top of logo. Lay the smaller fringe piece over the wet logo. Now lay the large “pull sheet” piece of cloth and smooth out the patches like a real lamination. Not too much pressure but get all excess out from under the stack. You can/should leave the outer perimeter of the larger piece dry as this piece will be pulled off.
Wait until gelled to eraser-like consistency. Do not let the patch go to full cure! Grab a corner of the larger top patch and SLOWLY peel off the stack. I go at a 45 degree angle and have the piece in my hand pulled back over itself while pulling. It’s like peeling a sticker.
You will end up with an edgeless lam on top of your color work. Hotcoat as normal. When sanded this method normally will not even show weave on the logo patch in case you are doing just a sanded-hotcoat finish.
Hey, PlusOneShaper, thanks for the tip! That sounds like a great idea. I was worried that the area over the logo would be too brittle but the extra layer of cloth would definately fix that.
Thanks again! adios
Howzit adios, What I do is put only 1 layer of glass over the lam and after it totally kicks off I scrape the edges with a razor blade to blend the edge into the lamination. Aloha,Kokua
Thanks kokua! I’m really glad I posted the question otherwise I’d have done it some backwards way. You guys have helped a lot.
ps. Thanks for all the posts you’ve made throughout the archives!
For inkjet printed rice paper lams, it’s best to opaque the back. If not,the pigmented background will show thru the rice paper lam and it won’t show up as well. The easiest way to opaque them is to put a border around your lam picture/logo, print it, tape it ink side down on a piece of cardboard and very lightly spray it with a couple of coats of white krylon. When dry, lightly sand off the bumps on the paint with 400, and cut it exactly to the outside border. You can apply it either on the lam or hotcoat (lam is better). Tape off the logo area with 3" tape. Put an even, thin layer of lam resin where the logo goes and lay it down. Put a piece of 4 oz over the logo, wet it out, and squeegee well to insure it’s down flat. Cut to the inside of the tape lines. When very hard, sand or die grind the cloth edge to blend (be careful not to cut into the pigmented lam). If you got some of the white paint bleeding out when you squeegee’d, then you used too much paint. If you have a light colored pigment and the logo/image is black, just put it directly on and lam piece of cloth over it.
I had a repair come in yesterday that had cracking over the logo (a well known brand) on the deck. As I was sanding it, all the glass over the silkscreened lam began chipping off (it was a big lam 14x6). Whoever glassed the lam had just hotcoated over it! Anyway, the lesson is that resin doesn’t stick to inked rice paper; you need cloth over it.
The above technique you describe is OUTSTANDING. It is simple and elegant. I’ve used a "peel off " technique in other applications in the past, and have always liked the results. Useing it for lams, as described, is very creative.
Regarding the “Peel Back” method. What is the purpose of the peeled back piece of cloth? Couldn’t the whole process be done more simply, like in Kokua’s method ? Just curious. Doug
that’s one case were a little more goes a long way. To answer the question Doug why bother with the second “peel off” layer is you should see the result. It really fairs-in the logo patch. After hotcoating the area barely leaves a lump and this is especially good for sanded-hotcoat boards where you do not want any weave showing especially in a detail area on a board like a logo placement.
Granted, I also float logos with just one layer, been doing that for almost 30 years, but lately the double layer method has really stoked me, that’s why I wanted to share it. Plus, there is no sanding, scratching or other contact that might leave raw glass scuffs showing; once the logo is peeled, it’s done, ready for hotcoat. A “low invasive” technique…
I do not mean to hijack this thread, but has anyone tried this technique for glassing-on fins? Oh man, smooth like velvet…! but that’s another topic.
Plus one, I am curious about the peel back technique for glassing on fins…care to share in another thread??
calvin class coolidge
peel back leaves an attenuated layer of resin regulated
not possible with squeegeee hand job
no matter how you float the resin on top
the glass rises up.
the ‘tamping’ of the intermediate layer with the expendable layer is genius!
I prefer genius.
aloha from waipouli
your name wiil be spoken
arround the campfire