Finished glossing the bottom of as board, pulled the rail tape and all the adhesive stuck to the board! First time that’s happened - must have been too hot around here, close to 95 degrees. Anyway, what’s the best way to remove it? WD40? Acetone? Wil have to sand once it’s removed because I now will have to gloss the deck.
We use tape. We take a fresh piece and press it down onto the gooey area and then peel it back. Takes a few tries to get all the glue. It works! Once enough of the glue is taken off, then it is sandable so you can gloss the other side.
HTH,
George
worked like a charm!!!
Howzit 220, Did the gloss batch take a while to kick before pulling the tape. I’ve only seen it happen when the gloss resin was bad and didn’t kick soon enough, Plus one has the idea when it comes to removing the adhesive residue.Aloha,Kokua
Just to give you another alternative for all types of tape/glue residue, GooGone is the best I have ever used. I’ve bought it at Home Depot, and seen it at AutoZone.
(I think it’s an orange based solvent.)
Quote:
Howzit 220, Did the gloss batch take a while to kick before pulling the tape. I’ve only seen it happen when the gloss resin was bad and didn’t kick soon enough, Plus one has the idea when it comes to removing the adhesive residue.Aloha,Kokua
Messed up and only used 1% cata to 16oz gloss. After an hour I just added some more gloss in the bucket 2% cata spread it on top of the existing gloss, did some good brushwork, mixing all together, and brushing off the excess. Board dried fast.
I use about 1.25CC per ounce of gloss resin. I also use some SA in there as well.
Here’s an alternative to remove tape glue residue. A good Art supply/commercial drafting store will sell what’s called a rubber cement remover/pick up. Basicallly looks like a square eraser. Its wonderful for picking up tape residue.
Drew
Use the right tape in the first place, too. It is my understanding (told to me by a pro glasser) that the 233+ uses an adhesive that is more heat-resistant than the original 233 - so if you’re doing hot coat or using a lot of catalyst, relatively speaking, the 233+ tape is more appropriate.
Howzit Keith, I’ve used both 233 and 233+ for resin applications and I really did’nt notice much difference, they both leave some residue. I would say that it was the long time before the gloss kicked that was the problem. The only time I’ve ever had the tape do this is when I used some bad gloss resin that took about 1/2 hour to kick enough to pull tape. But it’s so easy to get rid of the residue that it really isn’t a big deal.Aloha,Kokua
Hey 220 G
Had same problem with my first board, tried the new tape to pull off the sticky residue but this still left bits. Tried meths, didn’t work at all, tried white spirit (turpentine subs) came straight off with minimal effort.
Jase (MMM)
…styrene monomere…
Styrene monomere? What is this used for usually?
…imagine “virgin” resin…
…also used for dilute the resin…
Howzit Fatb, Very strange, I’ve actually just rubbed my finger over adhesive and had it come off. Also the tape on tape has never failed me either. Bottom line use some clean acetone, if that doesn’t work then some thing is very wrong.Aloha,Kokua
That blue painter’s tape doesn’t stick to foam as well as the 233 but I’ve left it on boards for quite awhile and it hasn’t left residue.
Cheap tape I guess then. The stuff I had problems with was a mare to get off, certainly needed more than rubbing a finger over it. The tape I’ve used this time round just peeled right off with next to no residue. As suggested it may have been down to the length of time it had been there before peeling it.
Jase (MMM)
in hopoe of comic obtuse reflection.I have removed adhesive by leving tape on roll for a couple years and then he adhesive sticks to the back of the tape and the resultant paper coming off the roll is adhesive free…
…ambrose…
…an addled mind is the dyslexix playground…
suffering from a big breakfast
Howzit John, The blue tape is a long mask tape that painters use for around windows, supposed to last for about a week or so. It’s not that good for resin use, may be close to the old standard 3M 2050 which is not as good as it used to be. After doing some research I found that 3M has factories in canada also and they have different EPA rules, so even though the tape has the same number it isn’t necessarly the same. I tried the blue tape years ago on a repair and the left over roll is still in the shop, never used it again.Aloha,Kokua