I’m just about to shape a 6’2" retro fish for a friend, but he’s challenged me to spray this design onto the deck. Basically it’s a japanese risng sun design, see attached image. The boards going to have a dark red resin tint on the bottom with cutlap, pinline and then the rising sun on the deck. Then it will be glossed with some carbon look alike keel fins on it.
This will be my first paint job on a board and i was thinking that as the design is fairly simple but bulky i could mask off the design and board quite easily and then take it to my mates car spray booth and get him to blow it over with his spray gun using a water based acrylic paint.
The logo in the middle will just be printed onto decal paper.
If anyones got any thoughts as to whether or not this is a sensible idea they would be much appreciated.
Also any of you guys in the uk know of any good suitable suppliers of water based paints?
Thats an easy one. I’d start taping off your rails/ masking the underside with craft paper. I’d then take a piece of craft paper the size of the deck, draw a circle in the middle with the rays radiating out. I’d then cut out the red section of the rays (leave the round sun so it all doesn’t fall apart) with an exacto knife and straightedge. From here what I do is I take some adhesive that is used to sanding disks to a powerpad and run a bead down each side of the rays to the edge of the paper. Let it get quite tacky then align the mask on the blank and run your finger firmly along the edges to seal the mask to the blank. Finally cut out the sun, lift the edge of the rays and apply adhesive under there.If I don’t intend to do pinlines around my colour work I find this adhesive method provides a sharper line than masking tape does, especially when masking small/irregular shaped objects. Any residue left after pulling your mask off rubs right off in balls. If your using EPS check for compatibilty on a scrap piece of foam first!
Ps- Don’t forget to cover your paint work with a thin brush of resin before masking for your cutlap or you’ll pull the paint off the blank.
I had thought about doing it the way you’ve just suggested stevil but was unsure as to the efeects the glus might have had on the blank but a tester is always a good idea.
Also i was planning to spray the deck after i’d glassed the bottom and done the cutlap. Any reasons why i can’t do it this way round?
Hi K.S. The only reason I do the colour work first then laminate is because I prefer to let the paint fully dry over a couple of days before I laminate. Solvents in resins will soften paint and an uncured paint job will bleed (especially red). I then do all my glass work in one shot. No reason why your method wouldn’t work!
If you mix your acrylic paint with future floor wax(instead of thinning with water…)…it will eliminate the bleeding you speak of…also you can laminate within an hour or so because the paint will dry tack free…my reds ,oranges,purples never bleed…try it…(Herb Spitzer tip …#101 …lol…) have fun…
sweet design, on purely an aesthetic basis, i love the design but its had me thinking and i personally would move the sun back and off centre about a foot and have less rays wider and leave more white. super scarlet red yeah?
have you thought about mirroring the design in resin on the bottom? quasi-ambrose style.
no offence meant, i don’t think you’ll take any, i just thought i’d chuck a couple of ideas in.