I recently had the good fortune of acquiring a 6’10" single fin hull bottom stubby, similar to a Liddle egg or Anderson Bojorquez, and loved the way it rode in point surf on the past few south swells. I am wondering how this hull bottom design would do in double overhead surf of the thick and meaty variety? I was thinking of ordering one with a more drawn in the nose and tail, but keeping the hull bottom and single fin true. Somewhere around 8’ in length for 8’ backs.
Don’t know the bottom shape of your board, as I don’t know Liddle’s or AB’s.
But I DO know big wave board bottom shapes.
For paddle in, almost 100% belly nose to WP, then accelerating V out to the back foot, then the tail rocker kicks in and makes the V disappear, or almost go away.
Nothin fancy, just simple curves for the simple water to follow…KISS.
Tow-in’s have their own rules, firstly because they are towed in, very narrow at around 16", don’t need float, and glassed heavy up to 20lbs. for a 6’er.
Liddle’s Hawaiian shapes work in OH+ (Hawaiian) so they’ll likely work well in most big California stuff. If you are talking Maverick’s, that’s a whole other thing. Have you checked Greg’s Website, Liddlesurboards.com. He explains things pretty well there.
check the resources section-boards in the 8’ catagory- specifically rocket 88- it’s an 8’8" hull bottomed mini gun shaped for me by Paul Gross-the bigger the wave, the better it works.Kp has a similar one that is 8’10" actually more extreme than mine, and that thing ripped in 2-12’ surf.
Thank you all for the input. Matt, that 8’8" is exactly what I am envisioning. My 6’10" stubby is shaped by Andreini, and it works amazing. I am thinking of having him make an 8’ plus board like yours for this coming winter.
Paul Gross shaped Kp’s “old yeller” straight ass, siucide rocker, deep hull and pinched rails-an all time screamer! as for the Andreini, i am guessing it is a vaquero model? if so, it is a board KP had Marc do based upon the hulls we ride but a bit more user friendly.
Thanks again for the info. Yes, my 6’10" is a Vaquero, and it is the first hull bottom board I have ever surfed. I rode it for 2 days at Pleasure Point on the south swell last weekend, and the board cooked – amazing speed, G’s, and it would bottom turn around 8 feet of whitewash. I think it is the style of board I was born to ride, to tell you the truth.
I am speaking with Marc now about a pulled in model for bigger surf like your 8’8". I do enjoy the user-friendliness of my board, and I am not sure that I want to commit myself entirely to single fin hulls yet, as I still rely on thrusters for tuberiding in Northern CA and overseas, and I love my fishes too. It would probably take me an entire session to adjust to a true hull bottom (or one less-friendly than a Vaq), and twice as much time to get a thruster moving under my feet again afterwards. All that adjustment time costs me waves!
I will let you know what comes of it all. I can’t wait to put a hull bottom over on a rail on a 15’ face with a ton of whitewater exploding behind me.
Apologies to others for using this BB to write a personal message to Matt – I will pm next time, I just want to be sure he gets this.
Marc has made some 10’ 4" vaqueros that are VERY similar to my 8’8"-KP has one and i have ridden it-it’s a cooker, so as far as getting something like that from him-no worries, you can’t go wrong.He is also producing some vaquero v- bottoms(based on one of mine) in the 7’8" range that are exceptionally good in windy, chopped up conditions.