Out of everything I have ridden,(1960’s logs, hulls, fish, pre-hawaiian semi-gun influenced singles, lightening bolt era singles, MR style twins, fish, post modern fish, bonzers, thrusters) i like them the least. I do not see any design(with the exception softboards used in surf lessons) as a crutch. The person riding it may use it as a crutch; the pro who rides a thrustered fish is using that board as a crutch because he is so engrained with the thruster’s feel he can’t ride a twin or a quad.
I’ve often wondered how influential the first three to five years of surfing is on a person…the equipment they used in what are probably the most intense learning years of a surfing life. Genetic memory, imprinting…how much of that gets ingrained on deep, subconscious levels. People can learn new things and adapt to most anything, but it seems like there still must be some personal baseline that has been established somewhere, sometime…and the rest of life is spent running from or running to that point.
Well, as one of the propagandaists I would have to agree completely. Each one of the contributing ministers was lying through their teeth. After spending decades riding and making these boards, we knew they were crap. Dave Lloyd edited out 90% of the truth: Steve K. standing in a Roy-like pose, bored to death.
Just as well you found out. I’m pretty sure that Steve, KP, Matt, B.Bay Al, Liddle and Andrieni have filled their retirement accounts with all the loot they made off TSJ (the bastards!)
I kid! Different stokes for different folks. Did you commit to the design for a while? Did you move the fin around? It’s too bad you didn’t get one nice railer off the bottom…then you’d know.
I have to agree with Dr Strange – i spent a summer in NJ once many moons ago ( 1984 ), and although i got some fun waves all over, i don’t think there is a wave in NJ that would compare in feel to a point or reef down here or CA, and which is essential in getting performance expected of a hull. I don’t feel my hull bogs at all when i have it on a point wave – if anything i get way more mileage of my turns. ROW made mention of a flexspoon working well, but that it didnt’ translate to a standup hull - but a flexspoon i don’t think would work so great in short beachbr adn jetty surf either.
I got the board, a 8ft malibu special when I was 14 in the first year i was really getting into surfing. I rode the board as my main board for about 2 years and after trying every fin position and different fins in every conditon i expierenced, i was never able to get it to be able to get a ride I liked. Towards the end of the time i rode this board, I began surfing more classic longboards and more of my uncle and father’s stash of old twins and single fins, which I was able to have more fun on. I could turn the shortboards with out bogging and i started to be able to cross step on a longboard. though the tecnique for trimming a longboard applied across the transition, I am still in the process of breaking the habit of turning on a shortboard.
LeeV, propaganda doesn’t have to be lies, it just has to be one sided. I did get one] nice railer off of the bottom, which definetly felt like being shot out of a sling shot but i never got that feeling out of an other turn even with certeris paribus. If I ever am out where the hull cult is, I would love to try one of your boards and be proven wrong. Hopefully it was the wave/rider/board combo, or maybe my board was a lemon?(i did try others but i never at
One would have had to see this wave on a really steep swell direction and to understand it. wave did bend and wrap into this spot. The spot no longer exist in the state it did due to two years of unfavorable weather patterns. I do have video, somewhere, of the wave after it begans it’s deterioration though you can still see how the wave wrapped. I probably will never be able to post that footage due to the fact i am no longer living with my parents at that house, and I am too lazy to find it and load it online.
Hulls will work in beach break, jettys, piers…anthing with a push and a wall. Me thinks if you jumped on a good board today (with all that experience) you might change your mind. But, whatevah. As for propaganda, I’m pretty sure there was a lot of “not for the timid”, “hard to ride” disclaimers in there.
I think that you have to be a really great surfer, handsome, smart, and yes, virile to like riding hulls. Sorry…
Awhile ago someone posted about how a well foiled hull, if held under water and released will pull itself through the water. So this just in from a friend who recently got himself and Anderson veersion
Hulls will work in beach break, jettys, piers…anthing with a push and a wall. Me thinks if you jumped on a good board today (with all that experience) you might change your mind. But, whatevah. As for propaganda, I’m pretty sure there was a lot of “not for the timid”, “hard to ride” disclaimers in there.
I think that you have to be a really great surfer, handsome, smart, and yes, virile to like riding hulls. Sorry…
AHAhahahaha! Well-played, sir! Point to the silver-haired gentleman riding the berry smoothie! Ale and hops all around!
Even before he (G Liddle) put the “Thoughts” on his front page, i thought he pretty well qualified his boards. He uses the term ‘difficult to ride’ in various descriptions of the boards. ( difficult, until you get it in the conditions it was designed for … and figure it out … then it pays dividends!)
Not a hard sales approach at all – very conscientious.
He uses the term ‘difficult to ride’ in various descriptions of the boards. ( difficult, until you get it in the conditions it was designed for … and figure it out … then it pays dividends!)
Not a hard sales approach at all – very conscientious.
Yep! There’s not that much sales in it–more of a salespitch-by-a-zen-drug-dealer challenge. Kinda like “I don’t know if this is the board for you, buddy–but if you can figure it out, oh, baby! there’s nothing like this stuff!!” (apologies to Lee! ;))
And the classic: A surfboard that’s “designed to work (best) in perfect pointbreaks?” Grins!
I love those things, even from afar, even as pure philosophy.
What Greg is also saying is that you need to get the right shape/rocker/bottom hull for the waves you usually ride. He has all kinds of adjustments he can make to the design to get it to work in different conditions. Sure, not all conditions but in the stuff most of us encounter. You can’t expect a “Point Breaker” to work in beach break as well as a hull tuned to work in beach break.
This is a particularly good example of the benefits of a true custom board and why, thank God, this design will likely never catch on with the mass produced, board factories.
back to the older, more ‘extreme’ hulls – if you were to put one of those side by side with a modern smoothie in a pic could you perceive any differences?
Main hull hazzard is addiction. Might also make you question what you have been doin for the last ? of years. I have seen many people get really weird when there equiptment is questioned or in some cases invalidated.
