I surf the east coast and am freaking frothing out of my mind stoked on my first liddle.
A couple of things: the steeper the wave, the shorter the board you can ride
the shorter the length of wave the shorter the board you want also
Im 140lbs 5’9 1/2" ride 5’6" x 20" fish and went 6’6" x 22" on the lidde and it feels so dialed i dont yearn for anything else in this genre of surfboard (besides a monster longboard spoon smoothie for the tiny days)
I recommend you go a little shorter than 7’8"
I feel mine rides a foot shorter and 2 inches narrower than it is, so my 6’6" x 22" feels like my 5’6" x 20" fish, thus if you ride a 6’0"-6’4" x 21 1/2"- 22" fish i recommend you go a foot or so longer up to 2 inches wider
perhaps 7’0"-7’4" but wide and thick like 23" wide 3 1/4" thick
in a fuller template like the pointbreaker or a hybrid between the inbetweener and pointbreaker with wp 6+ center
East coast beack break is fast and steep, with short waves sometimes where something shorter fits better
i think the 7’8" inbetweener might take a medium swell to get it going, but i could be wrong
hope this helps
Here’s a short story of my first session:
So i just had my first session on a hull, and I think I’m in love.
I waxed her up last night with glassy waist high swell in the forecast, did a little bottom wetsanding as mandatory rule of surf geekdom, and admired her far out curves before loading up the car with a log, dialer, and the ‘plate.’
Rode the log for a while on the outside, and on one wave in particular where i was just standing there in the step nose on the mushy face, the wave started to form up so i pushed the nose into the steep forming face ahead of me, and the wave jacked over me on the nose till i came shooting out close to a water photographer. This wave did it; I wasnt going to ride the hull till the waves called for it, but destiny was now.
I ran to my car in the cold, pulled out the 6’6" smoothie and a 5’7" dialer and got some weird looks on my way back to the beach.
First thing i noticed was that the board paddled like crap! But, I could feel how loose the round bottom and tail were as they slid around on my rotator cuff straining strokes.
I was a little apprehensive sitting out there wondering how the hell am i going to get this egg to go in jacking inside peaks, when a nice one popped up right in front of me. I spun and corked the tail into the wave and gave (more than) a few hard torquing paddles trying to get over the ledge when at the last second the board took off under the lip. First thing I thought was, FVCK im gonna pearl on my first hull wave, but I recovered so easily from the boards perfect smooth round nose rocker, and i popped up forward on the board naturally crouched in almost a hang five style position, and the board absolutely locked into the shape of the curving wave in a dragless, loose, and speeding trim giving me the same sensation in two seconds that a keel would give me on the 7th pump down across the high line. I flew low across the section into a little tapering bowly thing and just eased into a long slippery carve over the face, and kicked out damn giddy with stoke!
Wave after wave was the same. Speed, buttery travel across water, belly carves. I had some goofy moments trying to repostion myself on the board longboard style sometimes, but the less I did the faster and freer I became. The board took me to the best part of the wave with such an efficient travel I felt like aliens took over the planet and changed gravity.
I dont think I have ever had this much fun on a surfboard.
Merely riding a wave on this board got me as giddy as my wave of the weekend on a fish.
And this was at a beachbreak!