This one gets a crowned deck and rolled bottom.
I am going to try and attach the skins while the epoxy and glass on the underside is still curing so that I can bend them over the form.
The problem is that I have experimented with Gorilla glue and it doesn’t stick to the semi wet epoxy.
Epoxy itself is not strong enough on the small surface areas on the frame.
Any ideas for and adhesive?
Just my 2 cents but why not form it in the bag dry fit then attach it after the epoxy skin has cured.Epoxy sticks to most things but not much bonds well to epoxy wet or not.Chemrex sells a polyurathane adhesive that can take a heavy load in two hours.The CHEMREX CX-948 is very strong, I use it to glue down wood and rubber floor thresholds at work. Nice Yater, I have an old 9’4" Yater Step that looks similar.
Ian
I increased the gluing area of my frame by glueing 1/2"x1/2" foam (or balsa) to the edges. Adds very little wht. and makes it glue up great. Epoxy glue fore everything , that way I have no surprize when something is not compatable
Just starting to put on the foam in this pix. Frame is 3mill ply. I did some test pices before and was amazed at how strong it becomes.
Thanks for the input guys. I am going to look around the 'hood for that pu adhesive.
I am a little nervous putting this in a bag. I have crushed a deck using the bag and I am worried about twisting. Some one suggested I build up the skins one strip at a time. I think I will do this for the bottom since I don’t need glass on both sides for that. That should hold the frame rigid in the bag when I form the deck.
As Lavarat suggests I thing I will form the deck in the bag and then attach it when the epoxy has cured.
It is amazing what you can acomplish with a hot glue gun and come masking tape.
Hey Marke, that frame looks great, any chance of some close-ups of it, particularly the “rail” parts, and some more of the deck aswell would be good.
Marke.
I have laid topdeck skins (5mm) up flat on a bench and let the inside glass and epoxy cure for 6-8hours then glued to 5mm thick frames using thickened epoxy (thicken with milled fibres) this board has stood up to the last 10 months of abuse with no problems.
On the latest (4mm bottom skin) i did the bottom on a rocker table just made from attaching timber at the 12" stations on a strongback simular to yours. Glassed the inside and after curing rough sanded where the frames landed and used the foaming PU glue. The top deck has been layed up strip by strip (8mm) using no glass on the inside and PU glue to the frames and edge joints.
cheers
Couple pics for you fatbaslardass:
I was able to curve the bottom around the form nicely. I planed my strips down to 3/32" and edge glued them with yellow
glue. No glass on the inside so I was able to use Gorilla glue.
The deck gets glass on the inside so I am thinking of taking Kiricore’s suggestion of thickened epoxy for the adhesive.
Well I finished the board. I ended up gluing the deck down with epoxy when glass was still a little tacky. The board came out pretty light for a 9’ 8" HWS. 18lbs including the fin. The skins are only 3/32" thick and I only had to add 5/8" of rail since the deck and the bottom were rolled.
Wow, nice looking board.
The frame is great too, if I ever do another hollow I may just try that out.