I could not make templates without this tool

General Discussion
1

I cut as close as I can to the line, then clean it up with this tool. I use 60 grit paper and just walk it along the rough template edge. As I was using it today, I thought I should share it. The pad flexes to wrap along the curve as you run along the edge. Better than a flat planner. You just cut strips of sandpaper and insert them in the clips on the ends.

I got it at an automotive body repair parts place. Used to use it on the bottom of my sailboats and just looked over one day and saw it sitting there calling my name. Cheap and really works well.

Get one.

2

First saw one of those at Keith Melville’s place, and I couldn’t believe how useful it was.

3

What kind of sailboats do you have?

4

What is the name of it, and where can it be purchased? Home Depot? Lowes? Or…?

5

I see you’ve found my workmate+1x4+doorskin method! :wink:

I do the same exact method but I just use my 12" 2x4 sanding block with 60 grit.

6

I can see what remains of the paper template that was glued onto the template material with spray adhesive. An old crusty shaper gave me that tip. Create it in Aku Shaper, print outline, tape sheets together or get a plotter to print a full sheet, spray adhesive onto the template material and stick the paper, cut with jigsaw, and clean up with sanding block. His method was old school that used butcher paper and scissors off an existing board.

I like the workmate, good idea. I usually do it on a flat board that doubles as a wet out table.

7

Last year I made something very similar from a belt sander belt cut and contact adhesived to a 10" x 4" piece of 4mm ply with a wood block glued at each end for handles. Works a treat! I’ve used it to finish the rails on hollow wooden boards aswell.

Peace!

8

I’ve always called them fairing boards, although auto body shops may call them something else like a flexible sanding board… but why buy, they are easy to make. Any strip of flexible wood, some sandpaper and a couple handles if you are so inclined… lots of nice ideas/plans for fairing boards out there if you want to get fancier. E.g.; http://www.bertram31.com/proj/tips/fairing.htm

Not to stray off template making too much, but if you want to BUY a cool tool (for glass work, not templates per se), I recommend one of these, which will hold a flexible vixen file either flat, or bent to any nice curve you may prefer… I have an antique one made by Heller but you can buy new ones too. (Hi, I’m a tool addict and my name is Keith…)

9

I used to race MORC and PHRF in 24 ft. Later cats. No more, though. Used the tool for fairing and fine sanding.

10

cool brace for the’vixen’ file

never seen em li dat

tools as a rule can be cooler when you

finally understand them.

…ambrose…

11

flexible vixen file? how do I get one?

12

I got one from the Snap-on guy. I’m sure you could find them elsewhere though.

13

if you can’t find them locally there’s always the internet,

e.g.

http://www.tinmantech.com/html/files___deburring.php

or they are sold on EBay if you like that kind of thing

14

Maybe we are simple down under. It is used by panel beaters ( auto repairmen) to file BOG (bondo). So we call them bog files.

15

It’s called a fairing board…available at HD.

16

Making templates and exotic sanding tools are two of my obsessions. I think I caught this disease from

Jim Phillips a long time ago.

I make flexible blocks in all shapes and sizes and flexes, from all kinds of stupid materials; even combining

materials (composite sanding blocks!) to get a specific application tool. Making my own tools is like tying

my own flies, the work (or fishing) is just so much more satisfying when done with something you created.

That’s also why it’s fun to make your own surfboard…

Back when I made a lot of masonite templates, I made a ‘‘french curve’’ table from 3/4’’ ply and firmly affixed

it to a wall. I could clamp almost any curve to it and work the full length. I like to hold the planer sideways and

do most of the trueing, so I don’t want the template ‘‘standing up’’. I use the planer, then hard block, then

flex block to fine tune/finish.

Now I use sheet PVC spins for everything except rocker templates. SO much easier to make,work with, store,

etc. Speaking of rocker templates, you haven’t ‘‘faired’’ until you’ve done the female curve on a bottom rocker.

17

PVC sheet is a great idea. What are you using for rocker templates?

18

I still use masonite for rocker templates. It’s dimensionally stable and proven to remain so for decades.

I started using the PVC outlines for travel, much lighter and you can roll them up. A long time ago I saw friends lay up 2 or 3 layers of 6 oz in a big sheet and cut roll-ups out of that. The PVC sheet is just an easier version. After I got used to handling the light little spins, I didn’t want to go back to the masonite for everyday use. I still do some ‘‘record’’ stuff on masonite, but I work off the 35-40 PVC spins that sit conveniently on one of my light shelves.

I cut it with a razor blade and true with blocks. 10 minute templates, 15 if I’m lazy.

19

Hey Mike, what thickness is your PVC? I’ve bought 1/8" for stringer material, but at $32 for a 4x8 sheet, it’s a bit cost prohibitive for making templates when I can get masonite for $10. Of course, the PVC will last pretty much forever if you’re careful, so maybe it’s worth the extra cost?

20

Check the ''Templates'' thread for pics of my plastic spin templates. The material I'm using now is actually recycled milk jugs, polyethylene. My best friend buys lots of 4'x 8' sheets to make plant tags for his nursery. He's cheap, so it's gotten thinner.

I've misplaced my dial calipers, so I can't give an exact thickness. Probably one mm.