did he squish you with his HOOOOOGE neck?
where?
forgive him father he knows not who he do …what he do is self agrandizement in the spirit of the greats he imprinted on ,aloha gnat…doyle…fain …what determines wave priority?..I surfed with a 4’10"enthusiastic 44year old mother of two grown…with only us out what a stoker … i may surf again tomorrow maybe stand up too…drilled my new U.D.T.fins today I must try em out… laird is out o’ town training for jaws at a venice beach break?..greg noll quit surfing because he didnt ride small waves well enough to stay stoked… klong klong klong the bell tolls for thee go down the beach an see your former an future self havin a good fun time with your friends an exampulating someone who can witness your residual genius wave moves … you got it in ya …I know it…ambrose …laird’s boards are too fast
ambrose…what the hell are you talking about. i rarely understand your point.
Who’s Laird Hamilton…???
So you have been surfing Malibu Mike! I saw Laird out there about Friday in the afternoon. I did not go out as I was on my way up to see Paul and pick up another. Roger
Most of us have been dropped in on AND dropped in on somebody. Some more often than others. Usually an unpleasant experience. Just paddle back out and stroke into another wave. Without knowing someone, it’s pretty difficult to make a judgement about character or intent. Even when we know someone, what’s the point of making negative judgments ? Laird Hamilton surfs a wide variety of surf craft in a wide variety of conditions. He has made innovative and futuristic contributions to surfing and surfboards over the years. That doesn’t make him a hero or a villain, BUT Isn’t that what most Swaylockers are about ? How many of us wouldn’t want to experience the thrill of successfully riding the waves in the opening sequence of “Step Into Liquid” or make an attempt to ride a “hydrofoil surfboard.” Well, maybe I’ll pass on drowning and the hydrofoil.
he’s a meathead! [wink] meeeeaaatttyyyyy love, an angry cold water surfer
Yeah, I lost respect for him ever since he started calling himself Lance Burkhart, and gave one of Hawaai’s best shapers, Chandler, total disrespect. Then, when my cousin, Rick, won a wave pool event in Arizona, along with 500 bucks, Laird treated Rick like crap too. Gave him lip several times, and then when Rick was one wave away from getting into the main event of the Pipe masters, Lance (or is it Laird?) pulled on his leash and snaked him. Totally low blow. Laird (or is it Lance?) surfs Malibu? Well, that’s what he deserves. Probably doesn’t know that if he swam in a full porta-pottie he would be doing the same thing. Malibu is polluted, along with the immune systems of all Malibu locals. Yeah, the wave is great, but the sewage is disgusting. That’s why I rarely, VERY rarely surf Cardiff Reef, even though it’s one of my favorite waves. I wish I could surf it all the time, but it consistently has brown water. And don’t tell me that the nearby “Water Reclamation Facility” has nothing to do with it. They pump lot’s of treated diarhia into the lineup. It may be chlorinated, but I don’t like it. Here in Carlsbad they won’t even call it a water reclamation facility. They call it a Water Pollution Control Facility. Can you believe that? Whatever happened to Sewage Treatment Plant??? I used to be a cashier in a gas station. One of the guys I worked with, who had little ambition, actually was offended by the phrase “cashier in a gas station.” He asked the boss to use this: Currency exchange technician in a petroleum transfer center. I kid you not.
with only one line you’ve created another monster!
The pen is mightier than the sword. But is it mightier than the planer?
Hey Steve! Perhaps this argument is irrelevant? Your points are sage and right on the mark. At one point in the distant past one had to swim to learn and pay to play. The learners swam more and learned caught more waves. Think about it many guys maybe most have never surfed without a cord–ever. I think prioirty in the line up basd on good surfing and positioning is becoming forgotten history. The great stretchy equalizer creates a free for all. Yea I am a barney, but this invention was THE blow to surfing culture. Maybe we should talk to our legislators?
The leash can be understood as a symbol of modern surfings narcissism and decay. Petrochemical umbilical cords, they represent a growing preoccupation with selfishness, "connectedness" and away from the historic watermans athletic and social ethics. There are essential differences between the timelessly natural, even spiritual, emotions which are generated from the act of unencumbered wave riding and its present day assisted sub-species. Who can honestly deny that without their artificial, complex contrivances and secondary support systems, kite boarding, sailboarding, hydrofoil and tow-in surfing would cease to exist? Why should it be a surprise that Mr. Laird Hamilton is counted among those who are avid participants in the development of the motorized surfboard? "Surfings next great revolution" will be founded upon self- propelled equipment and horsepower. The dawning of that brave new era is closer than you dare imagine.
it was a paddle kinda like a squash paddle with a long thin rubber band stapled to the center of the paddle face…my manic cynical mind’s eye replaced the rubber ball at the end of the rubber band with a little rubber man from the cheap toy rack’s parachute toy… the object of the drill remained the same as when the ball was there keep hitting the ball to the full stretch of the rubber band opperating…stretch contract impact the ball/out stretched human figure…the mental sense of satisfaction at thinking of the leash bound being paddled by their pull toys…such a warm fuzzy thought…this toy ,popular throughout my youth was called a HIGH FLY odd it shared the name of a popular sailboard of the 80’s…motor… never fixated on my motor scooter,never learned to drive or got a licence til I was 20 years old driving to hanalei with randy and tony… every other kid in our civilization is likely to become moto fixated well before 15 1/2 yrs…this fixation implants the necessary blinders to ignore circumstances that lack ambient noise from continual passing of internal combustion engines …forgive them…they dont know who they are irratating because they take this ambient noise for granted and on top of that this noise gives them comfort like flannel covers to a sleeper on a fall morning… the chicken pecks open the egg and sees a quadraped and in its mind is a quadreped…kid surf ing penetrates the shore break and as the water clears its eyes (no gender specific term here) sees a polish national jetski champion (Nikolai Jetski unknown to many in fact invented the Jetski not marconi or leonardo de Vinci or Montovani) doing an ollie hop jibe spin on a 5 stroke “Belittler” mark v with red metalflake …kid becomes imprinted and devotes a lifetime in pursuit of "Jetski "credibility. the pursuit of the competitive attitude that preceeds many contemporary surfers imprint is based on: the one who catches the most waves is the best…many in the past have been bent to this form among them some of the most lauded surf heros of all time… others base their imprint on other credentials good swimming.good sportsmanship respect for the environs including the fauna, human species and other species as they all integrate to form a balanced whole… there are surely as many imprints as their are individuals…one dieing imprint is the session alone with friends concept…the population bulge we are experiencing is filling popular spots at a barely believable rate making it impossible to not drop in on at least some body at the BU…heck you might drop in on the Dali Lama ,Frederico Felini or Salvador Dali at Malibu and not realize it… they’re all out there at least sometime…It could mean a breakthrough in one’s career to be seen burning an international junk bond trader at third point or sponsorship from a major auto maker visiting from the Czech Republic after hanging 5 in their face as they paddle out their seventh time out in their life… these things could all be much more upsetting if we didnt live on a garden water planet where there is a country so rich that a subculture exsists that can fixate on surf bathing… the mythical sirens hooting and hollering their passions amongst like minded fellows as the passing mariners are drawm closer to see what the merriment is all about…does this help spike I tried to go a little slower pace…my point is that the biggest picture is greater than us ,our wave that we can never possess, our imprint where ever it was derived may be blinding us or delivering us from evil we have yet to see it play out …messiah or agent of exon only time will tell… waves bless you spike…there used to be a reef behind my house called the spike, a 95 foot steel hulled fishing boat trashed it aboout 5 years ago and much of the boat is still there they said they were gonna fix the reef but they havent done it yet … the hole ground in the inside section by the steel hull is 85’ long 20 feet wide and 14 feet deep at mean tide i’ll think of your confusion next time it breaks past the rusting hulk ambrose
Boy was he pissed nice stick ebay anyone
Last time I was out at malibu I was the only one out (5:00 am) and just as the light of day broke Jay Riddle and Alan Sarlo showed up. It was a mere 1-2 feet and breaking all over more like a beachbreak but Jay found it necessary to sit on my shoulder and drop in on me three times in a row. I could either straighten out or hit him. I decided to leave (2 foot isnt worth ANY crap) and as I was leaving Jay managed to break his board. It was brand spankin’ new. Karma is good! (Jay Riddle still owes me 3 waves)