I have read a lot of debates on noserider rockers vs concaves and I have a couple of questions that I am not clear on. Thanks for all the posters that have limited my questions to these.
1. If my blank will not allow appropiate tail flip. I can only muster 3.5" or so, my piece of angle aluminum broke at the solder joint today so I am not sure of actual measurement now…or its accuracy. Let’s say that is not enough, as by the posts I was reading it seems not. Will not having enough flip in the rear necessitate nose concave?
2. Pertaining to nose concave, does a blended concave follow the outline more versus a “What I Ride” tear drop ?
Not relating to concave and rocker, can you use HPLB rails using a single fin and a not 2+1 set-up?
Thanks again for any info.
guy,
Given the situation you're in regarding blank, here's what I would do if I were in your situation. I'd try to get as much flip in the tail as possible. I would probably use the classic Bing Nuuhiwa type concave. That seems to be the most popular type of concave for noseriding. You could incorporate HPLB rails, which would probably make the board a bit more responsive as compared to eggy, 50/50 rails. It all depends what kind of ride you are looking for, a heavy old school noserider, or a more modern one that besides being able to noseride, would be able to do a little more than an old school board. I think a good example of what I'm trying to describe would be comparing a Bing Nuuhiwa noserider with a Takayama In the Pink model. The first being a replica of what was start of the art in 1966 and the second combining the old with the new, a wide concaved nose, lower rail proflie and a 2 plus one fin set up. I can't see you having any problems using a single fin with HPLB rails, I've used that combination on the last longboard I shaped and like it.
Thanks for your respone foamdust. I have been getting a lot of errors while trying to search. It sounds like from the posts I could read, the Nuuhiwa concave is similiar to the "What I Ride" series, correct? I have never seen a Nuuhiwa up close so I am not sure.
You haven’t said what kind of blank you are using, but if
you haven’t cut your outline yet you can use an old trick we
used back in the day to get more tail kick.
Flip the blank around and cut your template out backwards.
You might have to move the template forward/back to get the
outline right, but it works! The best noserider I ever made
was done like that out of a 9’8 Y that was flipped. Good luck!
I am using a 9'7M Biofoam Blank. It's natural rocker is 4.75N and 3.5T. I went with this blank because I was emulating the Bing feather light, though I slightly modified it. Which had a rocker of 5.25N and 3.125 tail I believe. However, this blank did not support flipping the blank to cut. My outline is 9'6" x 18 x 23 x15. I couldn't get an accurate measurement with my 11' piece of 1/16" angle aluminum, so I more or less in the dark of my actual rocker measurements. I should be, by my slightly educated guess, near 4.5" in the noise and nearer 4" in the rear. I managed to find some pictures of the Nuuhiwa elsewhere and find the concave to be different than the August.
If you set the blank on the floor you can measure the tail rocker......
You need "about" one inch of thickness for your fin box ,measure how thick the board is 6" from the tail and you might be able to get a little more kick out the back by making the board a little thinner in the tail....
It's more about how the design flows and not so much about a single number like 4" of tail rocker.
Ray