One of those days where it’s big and messy, stormy. Out by yourself. The waves are disorganized but big enough to where when you get a good one you feel like you won the prize. The water feels electric with the energy. Battling the current, the cold, and that voice in your head. Bet there were some nice nuggets out amongst the chaos that day. That wave out the back is just begging to be scratched into. Makes me want to get in the water!!! =)
Reminds me of a day that my local beach was too big and messy for me and my friend to surf it.
We were sitting on the beach and looking at guys fighting the shorebreak.
Suddenly a guy appeared on the dune, that guy looked like he could kill a dinosaur using his bare hands.
When he entered the water, it took him 10 minutes to get in the line up and an other 10 minutes to catch a wave.
That wave was massive (for our north sea standards). After he rode the wave, he came out of the water and it looked like he said: “Pff this sucks, maybe come back tomorrow”. That guy was the hero of the day, and probably the only one that rode a wave there that day.
Later that day we discovered our first “secret spot”. A spot that only works with a big stormy wind swell. I’ll remember that day forever.
Well described Chisp!, had quite a few surfs like that this winter, the kind where you catch a handful of waves for a huge ammount of paddling and effort to just getting in the right place at the right time , but thankfully summer is just around the corner here:)
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Well described Chrisp!, had quite a few surfs like that this winter, the kind where you catch a handful of waves for a huge ammount of paddling and effort to just getting in the right place at the right time , but thankfully summer is just around the corner here :)
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