After months of mulling the idea of buliding my first surfboard and quite frankly, being able to save a few hundreds , I am complelty motivated to embark on this dauting task but excited to tackle on this new challenge. But I need some adivce on “start-up” tools for my first board. My budget as of now is $350, I want to slowly build up the tools and hopefully add an extra $100 by next month. Mortgage, three kids are priority obviously. Anyway, here are some tools , mainly planers and routers:
If you want to know where the real minimum is that it takes to handshape a surfboard then follow the link below and watch the vid. Any other tools that you want to add to that process can be considered optional.
One advantage to the noob shaper of starting with an all-manual process is that it’s unlikely that you’ll lose control of your tools, and less likely that you’ll accidentally go too far in removing too much material. I wish I had been smart enough to start that way, but I wasn’t; so I made some unforced errors that wouldn’t have otherwise occurred.
A hand saw, pencil, framing square, wooden sanding block, 36, 80, 100, grit sand paper. A few pieces of foam rubber, Surform and Mini Plane both by Stanley. Tape measure and that’s about it. Buy a cheap 2nd Poly Blank and get to it.
I use a power planer to skin the blank and rough shape, but otherwise its pretty much all hand tools. Trim router for fin boxes tho. I must be crazy but I enjoy surform shaping and block sanding.
Thank you guys! This all makes sense to me. The reason what I thought it was nesessary to have a planer is because I’ve read here that the blanks have a very tough coat that requires it. is this true? I’ve fixed all my rail dings, delams on my board, and currently converting a thurster into a single. Will post that soon.
A planer is a nice time saver, but a Surform and elbow grease will take the skin off the blank. For a beginner a cheap way to go is a Harbor Freight planer. It will work. Under $100.
…bear in mind that one thing is get rid of the crust and follows the blanks curvatures other is to shaping a blank. The planer is the tool for shaping blanks not only roughing, you shape all with the planer except some details or too flipped shortboard noses etc where you finish with the surform or sander. Even flat channels are done with the planer; only concave channel like bonzer you do (the main ones) about 40% with the planer.
Yes, you can do with hand blocks and sandpaper but try to not to do a “spot” sanding always long passes. The curved surfaces are in the need of X pattern sanding then long ones from the other side of the racks.
thank s Gdaddy, I watched the video and have a few questions? at exactly the 5min mark he makes a rail band guide but easly punches a hole somewhere on the scrap foam. how do you determine where to put that mark? How do you measure the thickness at the nose and tail? he doesnt even use calipers. I assume this dude has been shaping tons and boards and can do it in his sleep. what kind of problems will I encounter if I try out this method first? any tips help
He’s an expert shaper and he has a highly refined eye, that’s how he does it. You or I would have to measure several times and put some thought into it before doing it. I have zero natural talent and rudimentary skills with a planer, but I know how to use a sanding block and how to spend an hour doing something a pro does in 5 minutes.
You can make calipers out of scrap plywood or hardboard - google it.
Lastly, don’t sweat it. Commit to a plan, and then go for it - preferably at some point in the next week or two. Don’t let yourself get caught up in trying to learn too many shaping tricks at the same time because that’s not going to happen anyway. Your first board probably won’t be all that great, but you probably will have a lot of fun surfing it because even highly imperfect boards will surf - THAT is the big secret of scumbag board building in your back yard or garage.
I haven’t shaped a ton of boards, but one “mark” or line I always start with is the (intended) outermost point of the rail. So, a hard down rail tail would be represented by a line very near the bottom (on the side of the blank). A 50/50 rail would be marked roughly mid-way between top and bottom, etc. You can map out the rail line like this, and as long as you dont grind away your line, your original outline will stay intact. For me, this is a good way of really establishing a “starting point” for guides, at least imaginary, around the edges, and on the top and bottom. When you take a band off one side, do the same to the other. if you are using hand tools you will have plently of time to observe the results as you go, and the picture starts to come together. Generally speaking, do all stages like that. Duplicate your cuts on the other side as you go along. Seems like everyone gave you some pretty great advice, maybe the best of which is get at it! Hand tools work fine. Agree with Huck on the router tho… Have fun.
A few years ago the middle level Harbor Freight planer was 40$ US and the 7" HFsander coupld be had for 30$ on a coupon. I do not see that same planer on their website today. No complaints about the one I have, it is stock except I filled in the chamfering groove and sanded the edges of the shoes.
Many of the ‘cheaper’ planers often have belt guards that come close to scraping on the blank.
My old neighbor bought me a Ryobi 120 at a secondhand store for 13 $ US. I put the ‘Newleaf’ faucet stem depth mod on it and a hook-up for a slinky hose.
I have almost that same router, 30 years older witout the LED’s… but would steer you towards a Makita or clone trim router with variable speed that fits the Futures install kit, in case you ever want to ‘go there’.
The HF sanders are not super robust but they are a time saver. Treat yourself to a couple Flexpad or Propads and some matching pro-grade sanding disks. I got mine for hook and loop and I can cut the disks down and use them on 8" then 7" then 6" then 5" sanders as the edges wear down. A used hook and loop disk is aslo handy on the bench as sandpaper for odd jobs.
Good stands and side lights if at all possible to give yourself the gifts of stability and visibility.
making my list to go to homedepot this Sunday and buying all that is listed. I will call and order my blank tomorrow at NORCAL surfshop. Stupid question; foam rubber, for what? (Future Foam 2 in. Thick Multi-Purpose Foam ) . I am so freaking stoked, lets do this!!!