Guys, I read the post a while back with Jim Phillips discussing a 4" bit to route out plan shapes… then I saw the Harbour Surfboards shaping video clip which showed the shaper clamping his template directly to his blank and then firing up the trusty Porter Cable Anniversary Edition router (which had one heck of a long bit in it) and simply and efficiently cut out the template as if it were butter. I want to do the same thing instead of tracing out a line with a pencil and trying to cut the line out just right, and surforming the outline to the pencil line and… well… you know the rest.
i don’t know what they were using the in Harbour vid, but in the past i’ve used flush cut router bits for getting a super clean edge on my skateboards. i’ve got several, all have a bearing guide and make template duplication a breeze. some have a bearing on the bottom, some have it on the top. jigsaw within a half inch to minimize the material the bit has to power through, clamp your template, and make sure your bearing has enough meat to roll on. here’s a pic of a bit:
the bearing would travel along your template, the blade does the cutting. it’s a beautiful thing. hope it helps.
better example pic(the upper thin material is the template, the lower gets cut out as the bearing follows the template):
edit: i forgot to answer the original question. i’m not sure where you’re from, but go to your local full service lumber yard they should have them. the internet has tons of them. i’m sure the big box stores (lowe’s, home depot) have them as well. good luck
I’m not saying it won’t work, but you may have a hard time getting the bit to rotate fast enough with a laminate trimmer. May need a plunger router with a little more horsepower.
Any bit that long will only be available with a 1/2" shank…not a trim router type job…
Check out King Cutters in CA. I’ve had them make custom router and shaper bits in the past and they have a large stock selection (more shaper oriented, but can make anything).
I have used a drill bit with my 1/4" router to do outlines with 2" thick eps sheets, run at max speed. You have to clean up the results with a light touch of the sanding block, just for perfect smoothness, but it does a good job for minimal investment. I don’t think it would work with PU.
your trimmer runs at high speeds and the foam will produce enough resistance to make this a dangerous venture if you are not careful.
there are 1/4" reamers available in 4" length, check out google and sites like www.yankeereamer.com/ . make sure the tool is approved for the speed you run, wear leather gloves and safety glasses. mount the reamer so there is a bit of shaft just outside the collet so you can use the shaft as a guide. you have to run (bottom up) from tail to nose at the right hand side and from the nose to the tail on the left hand side. go slow and smooth. again, take care and follow your tools safety instructions.
Wow guys… after reading all this and the other thread about bruised fingers from trying to hold on to a router with one hand to shut it off with the other because the pencil router bit bent… I didn’t realize this was such a gnarly application!
Eager Beaver multi directional bit (about 4 in) use it with a top bering guide set. Also get a variable speed reo-stat. You need to slow the router down from it’s 30,000 RPM, to about 7,000. (harbor Fireght $15.00) The danger is in the hi RPM, a longer bit will wobble and break off, and lodge in you eye. Cut template out out of 1/8 masonite, clamp the blank with Jergensen long shank wood clamps. Easy quick simple and accurate.
Aloha, First off it isn’t necessary to cut all the way thru the blank, you can finish the cut with a saw. I like full size templates made out of 1/4" plywood. Plywood doesn’t move around as much as 1/8" hardboard and gives a better edge for the router guide to rub against. The router guide is the thing you attach to the base of the router. There are 1/2" high helix end mills made for cutting metal available up to 6" long from Enco or MSC, they are machine shop supply companies. They do not cut wood as good as a router bit but they work, they cut foam fine. Of course you do not want a 6" long cutter turning 20,000 rpms. When using a template guide the board is going to come out a little wider, so if the width is important you need to make allowances. Hope some of this helps.
To answer some of your questions, Surf Applications was started a year ago, importing and selling blanks and tools to shapers and surfboard manufacturers.
We are based in Westminster, CA. I am the owner, and I have been manufacturing surfboards worldwide for over 30 years. I use all the products we sell, and I am happy to answer any questions anyone may have.
The pencil router may seem expensive, but it cuts better than ordinary cutter blades and is far safer. They last longer and don’t need to be resharpened
you can use your laminate trimmer with the 1/4" collet, just go and buy that chaep variable speed reo-stat recommended by Resinhead. You need to slow the router down from it’s 30,000 RPM to about 7,000. (Harbor Freight $15.00).
then start of with a 1/4" drillbit and take it from there. drillbits are hardened and as long as you play it save all will be fine. do not move too fast and watch out for the power cord and the shaping stand. board bottom up go from right side tail to nose and back the other side from nose to tail. common sense will dictate what is save speed and what not. 7000rpm is fine. if the drillbit is not cutting good enough, use a reamer. I would not go over 3" length.
you also can use a 2" router bit and cut only 2" deep and cut the rest of with the saw, as viejo recommended. the precision will be in the bottom edge and that is where you want it to be.
if you can’t find a rheostat made for the purpose locally, if you’re handy with electrical, get a cheapo dimmer switch (or better an electric fan speed control), a 3 prong cord, electric outlet and outlet box. It’ll get the job done. Wire the white (neutral) wire cord straight to the outlet, and pass the hot (black) side through the switch to limit the current. Total cost probably about $10 or so.
DO observe ground continuity esp. if you’re working with a tool that has a metal case or handle.
I’ve used my variac to slow down my laminate trimmer when routing holes in balsa. Seems to do the trick. Is a variac the same as a rheostat??
Cheers,
Rio
Both control voltage and can be useful in this application, but they are not the same. A Variac is a variable (auto) transformer, and a rheostat is a variable resistor. It’s been a while since I had to do any serious research into controlling voltage, but I seem to recall that, all else equal, a Variac is preferred as a power tool speed controller. For one advantage, the Variac actually transforms the circuit voltage, while the rheostat dumps voltage by converting it to heat. Another difference (as I am reminded in the Wikipedia) is that a Variac will fail to full line voltage output, while a typical rheostat will likely fail to an open circuit. OTOH, rheostats are typically cheaper.
I use my variac for cutting eps and now for controlling my laminate trimmer. I love tools that do double duty. Who knows, I might find other uses for it in the future…
I use a spiral bit with a 3 1/2" shaft. You can use a variac or a reostat to slow down the bit. Godard tools down in Esondido made really good bits ($22.00). I bought a bunch of them. However they may be out of business? There are many mill shops that make them.
