Being in something of a reflective mood recently, I began thinking how very lucky I have been to have interacted with so many of the men who were, or became, icons of the sport. Almost to a man, they were outstanding watermen. Watermen, by definition, were skilled in all aspects of surf and water related activities. Bodysurfing, boardsurfing, diving, swimming (a given), fishing, reading and understanding the water conditions. Every day was ''school'' though it didn't seem so. It is a shame that so much of that wisdom, and the men in possession of it are gone now, or on the brink. I encounter few true young watermen, these days, though I'm sure they are out there. It's a pity the magazines have done such a poor job as keepers of the sport, and its history. If you find any candidates, mentor them, and pass on your knowledge and understanding. Swaylocks Forum seems to be the best possible chance for surfing to keep in touch with its roots, moving forward into the future. I truely believe that this is the ''grass roots of surfing'' today, and the best source of knowledge for the layman, absent the Iron Men of old.
Just missed a deal of deals on a 30' Cat. Factory built in Wisconsin in 1978. Older man was selling due to health needed some work but over all a solid boat. 24" draft with keel up. perfect for getting into those tight places and over reefs.
I'll take you up on that PR thing.
Mike very cool web page for those young guys.
Hey Tony,
I was thinkin bout Ernesto and PR etc. I am gonna keep practicing going left for el futuro!
Any pics of the left point?
Aloha,
Rogelio
Do buy the cat artz! You won’t regret it! Contact me when you are around Puerto Rico, I’ll point you in the direction of some neat places. I just surfed Tropical Storm Ernesto’s swell on the SW coast of a nearby island, perfect waist high pointbreak lefts and just two buddies and I…
Bill, keep sharing those old stories, I really enjoy reading and learning by them!
Mahalo!
Owning something and knowing how to use something are to different things. it's about making the most out of what you have. You may not like Kayaks but they are great craft for getting out to fish and dive. For Some of the more intrepid explore Types have kayaks to get to some remote secret spot. I'm looking at buying a nice 30 foot or so catamaran for exploring the caribbean. Sups are good for keeping in shape and they are fun on flat water as well as in uncrowded surf.
There are still young guys out there that have a lot of skills in all sorts of craft and conditions They are comfortable on the water and in the water. It's usually someone you don't know about they are surfing, fishing diving and sailing.
They may not be world class Watermen. If you are out there having fun learning new skills giving back more then what you take from the Ocean and environment Have a sense of adventure, exploring and taking calculated risk. An attitude of being open to new things and learning new skill. that to me is a Watermen. All manner of craft can be a tool.
Wayull, the thing is that you have to look careful at such folks.
Some are for real, yeah. But a lot of the ones I see with this, that and just about everything else are no more than serious contenders in the “He who dies with the most toys, wins” contest.
And then there’s the ones who have a shortboard, a longboard, a (shudder) SUP and frequently a (rettttcccchhhhh) plastic kayak who figure they are all around watermen. The ones that will be out on some sort of thing 'cause they ‘had to get wet, dude’. Playing with toys, man, playing with toys.
Now, again, as ‘watermen’ I think more in terms of the guy who steps off a working boat, or maybe comes up from lobster diving, gets on another boat or a board or what have you. Their lives and their livings are all about being on, in and maybe under the water. Put them inland and they might go postal. The sea is their home, not just their amusement park.
Though I’ll admit that I have a certain bias…
doc…
For the most part The Watermen and women are alive and well. They are simply a shy creature that tend to live an unimposing life style. Quietly fitting in with the surroundings and play in remote locations. Many are very close to your location. A good place to spot them is when they do a migration south. Watch as they cross the Mexican boarder. They will have all manner of craft boards, boats, fishing gear and maybe diving gear.
Other may have a nice sail boat something with a shoal draft that they use to venture south or out to the channel Islands.
Old post, but a good topic. There are young watermen out there, but there's easy to miss in a sea of people who couldn't surf without a leash, don't know how to see a rip, and couldn't catch a fish if their life depended on it.
A friend of mine's kids are good examples that may help to restore our faith in the future. They grew up surfing, diving and fishing. They bought an old sailboat, restored it themselves at their house, and then set off to the Bahamas on a self-sufficient adventure. They started a website that is definitely a nod to this all-round lifestyle http://pureoceantv.com/ The ''Youth and Ambition'' series on there chronicles the Bahamian trip and is very entertaining.
I know this is an old post but I just finished recutting a video I did over 20 years ago at the opening of the California Surf Museum and there is footage of some of our heroes in it. It’s a little funky due to the old technology but if anyone wants to see it I’ll send a copy. The theme of the museum opening was Iron Men On Wooden Boards.
Bob
What are you talking about Bill? All you need to do is look at the magazines, watch enough videos and master “Indo boards” than paddle right on out. Nothing to it.
Well Bill, I think in a large part this is what the core message is in my pal Dan Herlihy’s movie, “Surfing Through Time”, from the revision of the ancient wood boards, to the advent of the Hot Curl, allowing for the first time to navigate the real big surf of Hawaii.
This film deals with Wally Frosieth, Fran Heath, John Kelly, Woody Brown, George Downing, Brewer, Cabell, Reno, Lopez, Joe Guigg’s influence of the path of Malibu to the most advanced big wave board of the 50’s with Buzzy Trent at the helm.
it was a century of wooden boards, iron men, they were the Chuck Yeager’s, Alan Shepard’s, boldly going where no man had gone before, leaders into an unknown realm, writing the manual one page at a time.
Bill, we on this forum are the keepers of the sport, in some ways.
I can’t bear the magazines. SJ excluded.
If Bill doesn't mind me editing a little;
[quote="$1"]
Watermen, by definition, were skilled in all aspects of surf and water related activities. Bodysurfing, boardsurfing, diving, swimming (a given), fishing, reading and understanding the water conditions. Every day was ''school'' though it didn't seem so. It is a shame that so much of that wisdom, and the men in possession of it are gone now, or on the brink. I encounter few true young watermen, these days, though I'm sure they are out there. ......... If you find any candidates, mentor them, and pass on your knowledge and understanding. Swaylocks Forum seems to be the best possible chance for surfing to keep in touch with its roots, moving forward into the future. I truely believe that this is the ''grass roots of surfing'' today, and the best source of knowledge for the layman, absent the Iron Men of old.
[/quote]
Agreed - it seems I find more of the waterman ethic these days among working fishermen who happen to surf than among self-proclaimed 'surfers', who often seem to be awfully one-dimensional, they surf but the rest of their lives isn't about the sea.
Or in those others who happen to surf but make their living on or in the water. Boat folks, lifeguards, the like. For them, being around the water, as often as possible and in as many ways as possible, that's what it's about. Pleasure and occupation and always learning a little more about it.
If there's no waves, then there's fishing or sailing or diving or steering a boat someplace or being on deck or just rowing a skiff..... and indeed if there are waves, but one of the others appeals more just then, it's all good. No one part is necessarily better than the other.
I'll be kinda happy when surfing gets less popular again. Less pressure to play the game/fad and instead more freedom to be a real waterman, and more that might be serious enough to learn .....
doc...
40 - 50 years ago, surfing was a small part of the overall water life. Fishing and learning how to survive was the most important thing.
We were all taught how to gather a wide variety of food like shellfish, mollusks, seaweed, fish and how to prepare it. We were taught how to read the ocean and when or where to stay. I always thought that I would never have to worry about money because I could survive from the food the ocean provides. These days much of that food is not edible, and the stuff that is OK to eat is getting scarce. Introduced species of sealife have taken over many areas and the native species are gone. Same thing on land, we choose to buy food instead of growing it because it’s easier. Now Hawaii is 90 percent on imported food.
I’m no better than the rest because I have my day job, I buy my food, and I rarely go fishing. The ocean has turned into a playground, whereas it was our lifeblood.
My ultimate respect to those still living the life of a waterman. I still have many lifeguard friends who I played waterpolo with or against in high school, but many of them are retiring, and a lot have moved on to the Fire Dept. Cool to see guys in their 50’s or 60’s still fit and trim, and able to handle heavy water.
Bill,
I couldn’t agree more about the importance of preserving some of this past. My collaboration with Rod Rodgers to interview paipo riders is attempt to do this:
http://mypaipoboards.org/interviews/Paipo_Interviews.shtml
Coming up are interview with Bud Scelsa, Paul Lindbergh and others. The one with Bryan Hayden, tells the story of guys riding really solid waves on sub 4’ ply boards. We are still finalising this one.
If you know anyne, well known or otherwise that you think should be included feel free to drop me a line.
regards
Bob
[quote="$1"]
What are you talking about Bill? All you need to do is look at the magazines, watch enough videos and master "Indo boards" than paddle right on out. Nothing to it.
[/quote]
You're right Ace, what was I thinking? Now, where's my Indo Board?
Bumped up, for educational purposes, and intellectual stimulation.
Thx for putting this in my sight. I think its very much alive, at least here in Europe. Just been to Portugal to see some of them.
You are sure right about Swaylocks being kind of a grassroot thing for the true spirit of surfing. Since i did my first steps, i became interested in the history of the sport, because before i had the image of some mellow fun with your friends, not competing for waves 
So i read about the old hawaiians and their tradition to shape the board before learning how to surf and learn both. Since then i never ridden a bought board… And Swaylocks enabled me to do so 
So thank you for all the information i picked up. I didnt read magazines and didnt see the videos, i just started it by chance. Im still a shitty surfer, if i can call myself one at all But i learn from those people by following them. Im not sure if the ocean will ever feel natural to me, like the sea of rocks (the alps :)) but i slowly get to know it. So this is just the thoughts of an “outsider”
Greetings to the wise men of old 
Reading the last few comments treminds me of the people who used to be part of Sways and bailed for one reason or another. Note the reply from “doc”. He’s a friend of mine and really knows his stuff. He would best be described as a polymath. A very wise man that I respect a lot.
I think the magazines, i.e. the surf media, have largely succeeded in their goal to be the arbiter of “cool”, i.e. control the thinking and the buying habits of the masses. I don’t think there has ever been near as much of a responsibility to the history or the pioneers of the sport, as to the almighty dollar. At least since the corporations took over. Back in the day there used to be some good articles, I can recall one on May Ringe’s war with the highway department, haha, but even then they were as notable for what they left out as what they said. I guess the real history, what we have left, is largely an oral history, guys who lived it talking story. Maybe we could steer this thread toward any good books and info on the real history of the sport and its colorful cast of characters. I guess there are some good books and some websites, I’m not up to speed.