Hello…I’ve got a rail shatter (surface is fine) under nice pigmented glass; don’t want to go sanding/digging through it. Years ago I read here (or dreamed I did) about thinning the resin…with styrene ?.. and doing a subcutaneous injection into the shatter. Anyone tried this ?
Hi flounder -
If the foam is not crushed there's no need to inject resin under the glass. It can be done in some cases but the resin doesn't need to be thinned. For snackles and shatters the outer resin can be sanded down to expose the weave, styrene dabbed on followed by a quick application of resin. All shattered glass needs to be exposed for the styrene to wick in to the cloth. Wet/dry sand then buff and in some cases the ding repair can't even be detected.
Howzit John, You can tke it a little farther if the foam is crushed a bit by sanding into the glass weave( hope the color is paint ) til the glas is really thin but you haven't touched the paint. Then use the old heat gun trick to bring the foam back out and then reglass it.I did it a few times and it worked but the trick is getting the glass thin eneough for it to expand with the foam but not hit the paint and take it off. just my 2 cents. Aloha,Kokua
if the ding hasn't dented the foam you can use alittle crazy glue to bring the color back in the glass. Then sand and glass as normal for ding repair
Thanks…John, Kokua, Markssd…into the garage we go. Seems no matter what, I’ll loose some of that speed coat of deep red tint…another fix ahead, oh cheeses, just ‘let it be’! For years I’ve wondered why someone hasn’t come out with a rubber railed board…Rubber Bolt…!! Ok, ok, I know why, but still… Aloha, Flounder
Hi flounder -
One more thing.... make sure it's polyurethane foam, not EPS. If it's EPS, use epoxy.
Howzit flounder,I am sorry that for some reason I missed the part about it being a pigmented board and I was talking about a painted board so forget what I said and good luck, but if it is opaque pigment it will be easier to match than a tint. Aloha,Kokua