Will a resin tint (I was considering green) in my laminate coat cover the foam so that it will not be visible through the glass? I am wondering because I filled some holes on an old board that I stripped and reshaped and they came out good but are a much brighter white than the original foam. It’s really just for appearance sake. Any advice?
Rick: Here are some options: 1.if you haven’t laminated yet, you can paint the entire blank with white acrylic or green! tape off your stringer(s)and you solve your patch problems 2.lam with opaque resin (not tinted) you have to add white pigment to your base color to get there. How much? test…test…test 3.go for it and accept what you get as part of the learning curve with pigments. You CAN pigmnet your hotcoat to help cover some mistakes. Tom S.
Thanks for the advice Tom, the subject of my post was going to be a question about installing a single fin box and leash cup but I think I have that figured out, although any advice on that subject will be greatly appreciated. If I paint the bottom or whole board prior to laminating what paint works best and will the resin adhere to it as well as it would to foam?
Rick: My advice on painting rather than an opaque lam was assuming you stripped all of glass from the old board, filled the damaged areas and sanded everything the way you want it. From this point you approach it like a blank that you want to do an acrylic paint job on. Choose a water based paint (achives are full of info here) from a high end artist quality acrylic to a cheap tempera paint (some of these colors fade in time). Better to go with light coats over the areas you have masked off properly to paint rather than one heavy coat. You must let the paint dry completely before lamination (Herb uses alcohol as a thinner to speed this process up) otherwise you run into crystalization, delams and other not-so-fun things. Good luck, whatever you do it will be a keeper. Tom S.