Hey All, Do you really need the kit to install FCS plugs, or can it be done with a hole saw or somthing like that. Thanks, Scott.
Hey All, Do you really need the kit to install FCS plugs, or can it be > done with a hole saw or somthing like that. Thanks, Scott. if you can figure out a tool, or a way to extend the outer edge of the hole that a hole saw makes, so you get the rest of the ‘H’ all the way to the underside of the deck lamination, i think you’re home free (literally!) maybe someone here already has this figured out. if you tried to manually spin a hole saw (without the pilot drill bit in there, i think you’d be tearing out little chunks of foam. maybe you can rig a piece of rigid tubing of the correct diameter and wall thickness, with a heavy grit abrasive stuck on the end. maybe you can just buy their ‘H’ tool without the rest of the kit. let us know what you come up with, ok?
first i make a small diameter (1/8") pilot hole (for precision’s sake), followed by the hole saw. i peel off the little disc of laminate left behind, and i use a small router with a 1/4" straight bit to actually remove the foam and get a smooth bottom of hole. i’ve never done the ‘H’ thing because i’m cheap and lazy, and because only me and my kids use my boards. have had 2 boards out there for over a year and a half, and haven’t lost a fin. but you probably want to do it the way the manufacturer recommends. rgds
I use a hole saw to make the initial cut, the pilot bit works well to keep you on the mark. After you cut through the glass and into the foam pull out the piece of fiberglass. Next I use a Forstner bit to cut the foam down to the desired depth of the plug (test it as you cut to get it to the point where the plug sits down on the plastic ears). I have good luck with a homemade H-Tool. I took another hole saw and ground off the end of the pilot bit and use a T-handle to allow manual cleanout and careful cutting to the glass surface. (a friend used a specific piece of elec. conduit cut on angle and sharpened as an H-tool). I’ve repaired a bunch of failed FCS installtions and IMHO were caused by a failure to “connect” the plug to the deck glass as the H-tool does. Tom
I took another hole saw and ground off the end of the > pilot bit and use a T-handle to allow manual cleanout and careful cutting > to the glass surface Tom, I agree that the recommended way (with the full ‘H’) is the way to do it right. re: your H tool, is it a regular wood boring saw with the relatively large teeth, or something finer toothed? i remember experimenting with the wood boring type, and i felt like i was tearing chunks rather than going through smoothly. maybe my spin wasn’t fast enough and used too much downward pressure. when i realized i would have to fashion something with abrasive as the cutting material, that’s when i got lazy. could the blank make a difference? i was working with clark superblue at the time? i’m glad you’ve got it working right. thanks
Ramon: I bought 2 inexpensive “Mibro” brand holesaws. Modified one for the H-tool. The cutting teeth are not overly fine (maybe 6-8 pt.) As I think about it while reading your post, I finish the hole to the glass by twisting the hand-turned hole saw both directions, even backwards will cut or displace the foam. I’ve never used the “kit tools” nor seen them but they probably do a neater job, particularly if you have a foam tint on the deck side that would highlight a sloppy cutting technique. Hope that helps. TS>>> Tom, I agree that the recommended way (with the full ‘H’) is the way to do > it right. re: your H tool, is it a regular wood boring saw with the > relatively large teeth, or something finer toothed? i remember > experimenting with the wood boring type, and i felt like i was tearing > chunks rather than going through smoothly. maybe my spin wasn’t fast > enough and used too much downward pressure. when i realized i would have > to fashion something with abrasive as the cutting material, that’s when i > got lazy. could the blank make a difference? i was working with clark > superblue at the time? i’m glad you’ve got it working right. thanks
first i make a small diameter (1/8") pilot hole (for precision’s > sake), followed by the hole saw. i peel off the little disc of laminate > left behind, and i use a small router with a 1/4" straight bit to > actually remove the foam and get a smooth bottom of hole. i’ve never done > the ‘H’ thing because i’m cheap and lazy, and because only me and my kids > use my boards. have had 2 boards out there for over a year and a half, and > haven’t lost a fin. but you probably want to do it the way the > manufacturer recommends. rgds My view is never work w/ cheap stuff. If cheap results is what you want then all of the other suggestions would probably work and they probably would give reasonable to "as good results. But bu the time you create your own ingenious innovation you could be through that step and onto the next board. I not rich by any means but for $75.00 - 100.00 or whatever the jig kit costd these days it worth it to bite the bullet now and get the right stuff. Call Surf Source @ 904-247-0808 and ask for brian fox. tell him you need the kit and he’ll fix you up. jc
I’ve only installed Ofishl boxes. I cut the foam for all that detail work with a rotary hobby tool with a flexible neck. I also cut off my glass laps, and do several other fine glass abrasive work with a bobby tool. A kit with tool, flex neck, and assorted bits costs $50 at Home Depot. I recommend them highly. There are lots of places where hobby tools work better than conventional tools. But lots of pros refuse to use them out of conceit. If you were installing plugs every day the “right” tool could pay for itself. But you can use this $50 investment for lots of board building applications. There’s no need to defend your honor to an exclusuionary pro, and there’s no honor in being a pro’s patsy.
for the guy on a budget, or the guy who’s going to install FCS only once or twice, the function of the ‘H’ tool is the most difficult one to improvise yourself. correct? with due care, and other cheaper, readily available props, one can do a ‘dead on’ first time installation. rgds
Ofishl= a friend of mine bought a whole set-up then traded it to me(an official,ofish’l kit)with the router(couldn’t pass-up the great deal!) > FCS=I have a clear lexan ,and fine maple ply jigs to use that are goof proof…I primary use a 1-1/8" holesaw then go back with a 1" barrel sander on a drill motor to clean-up/widen the foam down to the deck,and or widen the glass hole.I use an old set of G-5s to set with…my jigs also have the setting hole for SUPERCHARGERS.Herb.
HOOOOOT!!! Thank you for all the great ideas! I work for a cabinet shop as a finisher, but I think some of the wood guys can probably set me up with the tools you all are telling me about. I didn’t know anything about the H cut to the deck, that alone is a tip worth its weight in gold. I just finished laminating my 6’ 10" and tomorrow I’ll get the hot coat on it. So far so good. Next step will be the fin box and half a dozen FCS plugs, WHEW! Thanks again for the help. SURF ON!!! Scott W.
Scott, since you were unaware of the ‘H’ pattern until today, here’s a visual detail at the FCS site in your honor. good luck http://www.fincontrol.com/home_frameset.htm
Scott, since you were unaware of the ‘H’ pattern until today, here’s a > visual detail at the FCS site in your honor. good luck darn their fancy website, click on ‘fins’ once there and you’ll get the picture. http://www.fincontrol.com/home_frameset.htm
darn their fancy website, click on ‘fins’ once there and you’ll get the > picture. Was just there and I have seen the light : ) Thanks.
The “H” setting way is a good way to go …YOU MUST CONNECT TO THE DECK!!!..but I’m finding out that a solid pillar is much stronger…I use rez+cabo+glass shavings.I also barrel sand the hole to the deck in a cone like shape larger end at the deck.It weighs alittle more ,but so do replacement plug jobs!Herb…WATCH OUT FOR OVERHEATTING!!! SET YOUR BATCHES OFF SLOWER,AND HAVE SOME COLD WET TOWELS CLOSE AT HAND TO SLAP ON THE PLUG AREAS(MAINLY DECKSIDE) ,AND BLOW A FAN OVER THE TOWELS TO KEEP IT COOL…this will help greatly if you cook the resin…ALSO:use fiberglass patches under the lam in the area of where your plugs will be…DECK,AND BOTTOM.This will give it a stronger foundation.
Thanks Herb, The pillar sounds pretty stout. I did put extra patches on the bottom, but not the top. I’ll put some patches on top under the hot coat. the “H” setting way is a good way to go …YOU MUST CONNECT TO > THE DECK!!!..but I’m finding out that a solid pillar is much > stronger…I use rez+cabo+glass shavings.I also barrel sand the > hole to the deck in a cone like shape larger end at the deck.It weighs > alittle more ,but so do replacement plug jobs!Herb…WATCH OUT FOR > OVERHEATTING!!! SET YOUR BATCHES OFF SLOWER,AND HAVE SOME COLD WET TOWELS > CLOSE AT HAND TO SLAP ON THE PLUG AREAS(MAINLY DECKSIDE) ,AND BLOW A FAN > OVER THE TOWELS TO KEEP IT COOL…this will help greatly if you cook the > resin…ALSO:use fiberglass patches under the lam in the area of > where your plugs will be…DECK,AND BOTTOM.This will give it a stronger > foundation.