I couldnt find too much info on the subject of installing fin boxes by hand without a jig and router. I would rather not have to go buy a router and install kit but if its worth it I could delay the board building process and save up for the kit. Any help on the subject would be appreciated. Also not so sure on how to measure the canter and angle of my fins to get them perfect. The board is already shaped. Im just kind of at a stand still because of my lack of confidence on the subject. Thanks for all the help.
Check this out,Install kits…
http://greenlightsurfsupply.com/finsandaccessoriesproboxfinsystems.aspx
and this!
http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/routers/1-4-quarter-inch-trim-router-44914.html
Post some dimensions on your board and the fin setup you will be using and I’m sure someone here can help you with some numbers on where to put the boxes.You can put fcs fins in a probox and even modify futures a bit and they will fit them as well,not to mention probox has a great selection of top shelf fins for good prices.Check out the website for probox too,they have a good detailed install video.I normally have a pile of them here and will set them for 20$ a hole,box and resin included,you just gotta sand em.
No doubt it could be done, perhaps with an exacto knife or dremel type tool…? I think it depends on how clean you hope your finished install to be. Others here have posted many topics about home made jigs but usually using a router, and it is a two stage rout (flange and cavity) so it would be very tricky to get accurate depth/nice cut. remember much of the strength comes from a fairly tight fit. plus aligning the placement & toe is going to be a nightmare without some kind of jig, IMO
Hi Creature
Most important thins are the alignment to the stringer and checking the depth of the fin box into the foam. i placed the box 6 inches from the tail. I needed 2.75 inches of depth.
Steps
1)Mark aligned outline using the finbox itself
2)Cut the glass to outline with exacto knife
3)Scoop out foam arond stringer
4)Chisel out stringer to required depth
5)Cement in box
6)Glass in football size fibre glass mat patch over top and bottom for extra strength
I glassed the blank first then did the finbox...got advice from other posts here
good luck...took me about 5 hrs.
Howzit creature, do you know someone who would loan you a router and even better if you know another board builder who would also have a fin box jig. Doint them by hand can be a pain even if it looks pretty easy in the pictures. I don't remember what I did with my ig when I had to shut down but must have given ti somebody who builds boards. I also had one of LokBoxes vacumn setups and those are so nice to use.What ever way you end up doing the install ,good luck. Aloha,Kokua
I did a set of future boxs, thruster
use the boxs for a template
hole saw the ends
i used a hacksaw blade to cut the straight sides
carved out the guts
resined them in and glassed a patch over them
I will add a pic later, as Im preping to go on a work trip till next week
if you dont want to use a router, just glass your fins on!
Hey citysurfer101a -
Nice job using hand tools. I've done hundreds that way and they all turned out OK. It works and if you're careful it's impossible to tell the difference from a routed job. I guess the squared corners might give it away if someone wanted to nitpik but structurally and cosmetically you're installation is fine.
I tape a metal ruler down along the outside of my cuts to make sure my knife doesn't drift while cutting.
I mainly use a router now but still insert a fin, eyeball it for vertical orientation and tape it from tip to rail while the resin sets.
I had an old wood-shop teacher who always told us to “make yourself a jig” before doing anything that involved multiple cuts. I bet with some thought and a bit of skill you can do it. In fact I know you can- unless you do not have a brain, and missing multiple limbs. citysurfer is ingenious, and a craftsmen, and from the looks of his work should try his hand at making a jig.
Hey everyone. Carved the fin boxes out by hand lastnight after you guys motivated me. Turned out a little sloppy. Should have used something sharper. I used surfer steves idea of a hack saw blade with tape on it, and a wood chisel. Damn that stringer is a pain in the ass lol. The boxes fit pretty well though. On the left fin I went a little deep. So it doesn’t sit perfectly flush, but slightly below. Not sure if this is going to be an issue or if when I fill it with resin it will hold it up
Slightly. It’s only s couple of mm off.
Thanks for all the help guys. I’m glad that I did it by hand. It’s possible to do it better, and I will on board #2. I should glass it within a week or so depending on weather. I think I’m going to use uv resin. I helped a buddy glass his board with with Mekp and I feel like I would benefit from the extra time uv will give me.
layer extra glass under the low one
Thats what I was thinking ken. should the glass layer only be the size of the deeper part of the fin box or should it protrude then cut it after it gels?
If your exacto knife can’t quite make the cut then…
-
draw outline with pencil
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take small diameter nail , hammer nail through fiberglass surface, repeat along outline using a judicious interval
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connect holes with a razor blade
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pullout fiberglass sheath.
I was thinking just under the box
If the box is sloppy then maybe you should bring the glass up the sides also
the box isnt sloppy. I think a little bit of fiberglass should do the trick. Hoping tomorrow doesnt rain even though the weather report says otherwise. at the very least I should be able to buy all the supplies that I am going to need when the sun does show itself. Thanks for the advice ken
where you located?
Howzit creature, That extra layer of fiberglass is going to darken the area where it is placed, I would try presetting it with some glass underneath the box or you could use resin and milled fibers instead of glass cloth. Just another option since you have to install the boxes before you aminate the board anyways, Q-sel is another option and infact anything that is a filler would probably work. Aloha,Kokua
I am located in Santa Cruz ca. I installed the boxes a couple of days ago. They turned out well. Looks good and solid. When you sand the boxes down, are you supposed to make them flush with the bottom of the board or will the hotcoat blend it in? I sanded them down pretty low ad laminated the bottom of the board already. Just wanted to ask for future reference. The bottom lam coat came out great in my opinion. I’m using uv resin so I have to wait till it stops raining.
I have a few questions for you guys for the rest of the project that I have been wondering.
I’m going to paint the foam on the deck with some black stripes and some paint splatter. I was planning on painting the foam then laminating the deck after it dries. My question is… If I don’t plan on doing a gloss coat and I just want to sand out the hotcoat as much as I can without running into the weave, will it be too Matte to look good? I’ve been reading the archives a lot and it seems that none of the acrylic or Lacquer options seem to be a solid solution if you don’t have a compressor (which I don’t). Should i just go for a gloss coat or just sand the hotcoat? I don’t think Im too picky. It’s supposed to be a performance board so I’m
Trying to keep the weight down. Thanks for all the help. I know this is off subject but it seems like if I made a new thread it would be you guys helping me
Out regardless. Thanks again. Everything is turning out great with all the help I have received on this wonderful site.
Doesnt help you now, but look for a very cheap chinese router. I picked one up for 60 bucks. Would probably blow up on wood, but is perfect for finboxes. The thing with a router is you can make a jig, and use it to clean up the excess box, which takes a shitload of time of your final sanding. A huge improvement.
Cheerz
Is this true? I just installed 2 future boxes on my pre-glassed board. I carved out the outline using a razor blade and dremel type rotary tool. I flooded the hole then line with glass cloth and it overlaps about an inch around the fin box.
Will there be a lot of discoloration in that area once I glass the whole board? The board will be white.