I’m about to install some Futures boxes for the first time. I have no probs with the routing or install process, that’s straight forward enough. However, I will be installing them into 1.3# EPS. Normally with Probox, I use HD inserts, but I don’t really like the weight that adds to the tail of the board, so I don’t want to do that this time. My search of the archives found this interesting method by GregTate: http://www2.swaylocks.com/node/1022004
The key photo is this one:
Now Greg’s post is from over 5 years ago, and I couldn’t really find anything more recent, so I’m wondering how do you install Futures boxes in 1# EPS? If it makes any difference, I will be vac-bagging a bamboo veneer over the top of the box.
My initial testing of the stability of a box in the EPS suggests that it will probably be fine without any reinforcing, but I’m just keen to know how others are dealing with this.
Maybe route 1/32" deeper and lay a strip of 4 oz. glass in the bottom, maybe up the sides a bit too if you can squeeze it in. At least you’ll have a more solid surface for the box to press against when loaded with force. Bagging bamboo will certainly make the flange stronger but as the boxes rotate laterally the bamboo will effectively only strenthen one side of the flange, the other will pull away and crush into the foam…in my opinion a little glass in the routed hole will help resist rotation of the box.
We do a lot of ding repair work on folded futures boxes from guys either beaching it or landing on their fins. So, whatever you do to strengthen the boxes, don’t hit anything and keep your feet on the deck!
Glad you found that. Also search on HD foam inserts. Just know that preventing box rotation is key like Brian says. But in the end the only thing that really provides the needed strength is bonding to the flange. Unless you embed the strips of wood like I did (to prevent rotation).
I use this method in all my compsands (mostly Future boxes) thanks to Greg. The only difference I may have from Greg’s is I route all the way through my blank (0.75 to 1# construction eps) so the top and bottom of the balsa bond to the top and bottom skins. I also use three orthgonal pieces that are a bit shorter. 1/4" thick ones. I coat my pieces before and after I route to try to avoid any water intrusion if there are any cracks to let water in. Haven’t had a failure yet, and I used to routinely blow out fin boxes in 2# foam non-compsands if I use the board for more than a couple of years.
Thanks for the feedback guys, a couple of good options there. Good to hear Greg’s method is still in use 5 years on, means it must work well!
I’m making a test panel for vac-bagging the bamboo veneer over a futures box, just to get my process right (do I cut slits for the boxes, or do I not…let the test panel decide!). When it’s done, I might have to start a thread for a quasi-scientific destructive test to measure just how much moment a futures box can resist in 1# EPS under a bamboo skin!
