Has anyone here done it? I tried hammering 1x4 into the grooves in the side and then a 2x4 to connect them at the top. Bad idea…I’m far from a woodworker. I know there are several carpenters on this forum that could give me some advice on what to do inside of a giant steel can.
Sikaflex…
Metal Screws…
If you dont want to drill into your walls for self tapping screws or bolts I would simply use a quick grab adhesive - loads of the stuff on the market - Gripfill and Sticks Like Sht are 2 brands I’ve used to good effect here in the UK…I’d key the area up with some deep scuffs with a grinder first. If you are going to have a shelf above your lights I would run some vertical timber supports down to the floor to take the load…you just know those shelves will end up loaded at times.
Cheers
Rich
Sika Flex will be permanent, but slow cure. Won’t cure at all between metal surfaces without air/ moisture.
How about magnets? They’re magic!
Attach the light stip to a horizontal stud. Magnet on metal stud only. Keep the magnet away from the Magnetic ballast inside, or it won’t work.
If you want permanent shelving, buy a welder a beer, and promise him the first board you make.
Where are you anyway?
We’re surfboard makers here. Epoxy on the back side of the light. Wait till it cures/ thickensa little, then placement. Hold in place with tape till final set.
Drill holes and fasten the lights with nuts and bolts and silicone to seal.
Hello Mr. Insane…
I have a shipping container/shaping room.
The things are the perfect size and I love it - Mine has triple length lights and ample length for rhino-chasers. There will be enough space for a dust-sucky chamber yet to be gotten around to,
So you’re doing well.
Mine presented a different problem to yours - It’s fridge wall - a 4 inch thick sandwich of PU foam sheet between chopstrand fibreglass skins.
So I needed anchors to give any screws some decent purchase. The pics are the set-up with the very first board done inside, and the other is the relocation to it’s current site, with the timber stanchions into which the coachscrews for the light shelves go.
Mine is insulated…you on the other hand may want aircon. If I was going a steel one, I’d keep it in the shade.
Hilti or similar would be the easyest the pins on theory weld themselves to the metal.
Or angle brackets and pop rivits.
If you want somthing that can be removed without making holes full hight timber in the grooves and one at the top cut tight between to hold them
in the grooves simple and solid have built racks this way to store materials on site a few times.
They get real hot in the sun then freezing at night condensation can be an issue with non insulated ones.
Surely you've got a friend that has banged nails before. Speedneedle hit on an important note. With no insulation, it will be really tough to keep it cool (or warm) in there. If you've got the $$, frame a stud wall right up against the metal walls, nailed at the floor and tied together across the ceiling via a joist system. This way, you can insulate and sheetrock the walls and the ceiling and have nailers for shelving and more importantly, your sidelights and an overhead light or two. Regardless, I'd cut a window in the far end of the container and face it so that you can get the prevailing wind in your area to blow through.
[quote="$1"] ...If you've got the $$, frame a stud wall right up against the metal walls, nailed at the floor and tied together across the ceiling via a joist system. This way, you can insulate and sheetrock the walls and the ceiling and have nailers for shelving and more importantly, your sidelights and an overhead light or two.. [/quote]
Good points. Since width is at a premium, you could turn the studs sideways and frame a skinny wall, insulate with foam board, and sheetrock or plywood over. I have taped and finished plywood with drywall joint compound before, a bit more work, but it looks like sheetrock when finished, and you can hang or attach anywhere.
Just thought of this. You could use drill point screws through the back of the light’s housing, then seal where the screw exits the side of the container with silicone.
exactly…
And have a good first aid kit when someone leans against those pointy screws. Silicone peels off.
I’m done with the meaty part of the build. I appreciate the advice and chose to bolt the 1x4s to the steel in the groves. I then reinforced the 1x4s with other 1x4s and slapped a doorskin wall up. I put a 1x4x12’ one each wall to support the lights and shelf. The reason I used 1x4s is due to the banged up walls of my container that was in use since 1986. I needed the flexibility to save as much space as possible. Otherwise I’d have used 2x4s. Once again, thank you to all who contributed ideas.
Speed needle, your shop looks pretty awesome! I’m planning the triple length lights down the road as well.
Hey Insane, Thanks.
I have had the long bay borrowed by a fellow shaper for a 12ft SUP gun shape which would have hit the ends of his regular bay!
Here’s the thread with the adventurous tales of the Chambre d’amour -
http://www2.swaylocks.com/forums/le-chambre-damour
JD
A shipping container purchased from the Port of Tacoma serves as a storage and utility shed.
