A friend of mine and I watched Shelter and when the scene with the door being “surfed” popped up - he asked me “If people are surfing a door, then how dramatic IS surfboard design?”
His basic point was that ANY board is surfable on ANY wave, which technically is correct.
I explained to him that different designs work in different ways. however, In my opinion your regular performance shortboard is technically surfable in any setting.
This is probably a dull and basic comment, but it seems like something that could be a good discussion. It was the best one Ive had about board making with someone who doesnt even surf, let alone shape.
Basically, do you think design makes a HUGE HUGE impact for the experienced surfer? Can someone call themselves an experienced surfer with one board in their quiver? Does surfboard design and the ability to recognize and adapt to the design equate experience?
I think the opinions here might make for an interesting conversation. I’ll chime in with my opinions after people have posted.
I once saw some footage of Cheyne Horan surfing 20’+ Waimea on his 5’6" lazor zap.
Something has to be said about that board (and surfer) being able to paddle into that wave. But it was a squirely ride that would have been a smoother ride with a real gun.
Basically, do you think design makes a HUGE HUGE impact for the experienced surfer? Can someone call themselves an experienced surfer with one board in their quiver? Does surfboard design and the ability to recognize and adapt to the design equate experience?
Design does make a difference: you can’t change the laws of physics, particularly with respect to mass and inertial. Back to the real world, a massive longboard simply won’t respond like a lightweight stick. 2. The number of boards in anyone’s quiver has zilch to do with how experienced they are. I have five but ride three; space and personal preference keep me from having lots more. 3. An experience surfer can use fewer boards more effectively but see item 1, the right tool for the job makes it a treat. That said, the more boards you have, the more often you’ll show up at the water with the wrong one.
I feel experience is time in the water as well as variety of waves. The amount of boards a guy owns doesn’t really matter. Boards are a matter of preference . A dedicated longboarder may not ride / own or have ever riden a short board and visa versa however it does not make them any less experienced.
"Basically, do you think design makes a HUGE HUGE impact for the experienced surfer?
It depends on the degree of change from one board to another. Two nearly identical boards, one with flat bottom and one with concave, will not make a huge impact IMHO. But change the fin size or position, change the volume, rail shape, rocker, etc etc then absolutely. I can tell u from first hand experience…I went thru a phase over the last 5 years or so…I moved to a mushier surf area, wasnt surfing as much, thought I was getting older. So I started surfing on bigger boards…went from 6’6 to 6’8…wider and heavier also. I caught just as many waves if not more but my performance suffered…I simply thought I was slowing down. It slowly started to dawn on me that I was riding inferior equipment so I tried a 6’5 epoxy and the spark was back in my surfing. It was night and day.
“Can someone call themselves an experienced surfer with one board in their quiver?”
Yes…experienced and poor. Seriously, there is an advantage to using one board for 90% of your surfing…you know that board and how it performs in a variety of conditions. This is easier if your surfing the same few breaks most of the time. I personally like a three board quiver: all-rounder funwave, big wave and tiny wave/paddle but Im a gear head that also likes to accumulate boy toys.
I think the key for multi-board quivers is keeping the designs simple and close-ranging…for instance using a similar general rail design but changing the volume slightly from one to the other. Or instead of having a squash and pintail, replace the squash with a round.
“Does surfboard design and the ability to recognize and adapt to the design equate experience?”
For some yes for most no…most surfers are very ignorant when it comes to design (by choice) and much of what they know is obtained from hyped up (marketing) literature. Just look at how much attention bottom contours get and how little attention fin configuration/placement gets. Yet fin configuration is far more critical IMHO.
Finally, I own the movie Shelter…looking at that comical scene in an otherwise moody film…did your friend consider how that same door surfer would have tore up those waves if he was riding the real thing? HUGE HUGE