the thing is that the wood I have allows me to get max 2.5/ 2 5/8 if i`m lucky.
dims would be around 9.4 x 22.75 x 2.5". single fin
Im 6.3 and weight 180 pounds. The thing is going to float. Im not worried about that. I surf mostly shortboards (between 6.3 and 6.7) and is going to be a big change already.
I was wondering if 2.5" is going to be too thin for max thickness in such a board.
A nose rider is a lot about leverage , but befor anyone jumps on that , yes you can nose ride much shorter boards , but the op rides short boards so its all new to him , if it were me I would make it longer , 10.4 would be better
Put all the “light” pine together that you plan on making the board with. See how light it is then. Point being, it won’t float like foam, even chambered. Regardless, it sounds like a fun project. I say go for it!
The reality (if one has ever ridden a longboard, specifically a “Noserider”) is that anything over 9’6 is too much length (IMO)for a Noserider. At 10’6 it is a long stroll or hike to the nose. But to answer your question; NO! Sticks of pine chambered at 2.5 inches will not make a decent Noserider.
your problem wont be thickness but more rocker… you’ll probably only get 2/2-1/4 rocker (any deck rocker would thin out your board) Or is your max thickness your mention already calculating all that??
I’d make a 50s pig with a dead flat deck if it was my wood - or a nice hotcurl :)
…“anything over 9’6 is too much length (IMO)for a Noserider…” and for riding bike!
…“But to answer your question; NO! Sticks of pine chambered at 2.5 inches will not make a decent Noserider…” yeah… i`m afraid of not being able to make a decent chamber at 2.5 inches, thus, ending up with a super heavy non-floating-enough monster train board…
My encouragement would be to Calculate the value of the effort by what you learn from the build and how much you take away and take forward to the next one. Board building is a long game. if all you want is the ride just go buy a board. Without any experience the chances of hitting a homerun are slim. Just a thought
I would not chamber a board out of pine, it will still be very heavy. Even light pine is about 400g/liter; a massive board of 9’ something usually it abouve the 70l mark, resulting in a weight of 28kg (uncahmbared) chambering will approximately reduce the weight by half, meaning 14kg or almost 30 pounds. 30lbs on a bike with some wind…
If you go direction 9ft siomething, the less the height, the easier it may snap or break. I can not calculate it, but 2.5 maybe to low.
Why do you not use wood, rip thin planks out of it and build a HWS. then it is much lighter, below 20lbs should not be a problem and you can build it higher. And you should be able to build more than one board out of the wood, I would estimate 2-3 or 2 long and one shortboard…
Building an HWS is work, but not too difficult. If interested check out on www.woodboardforum.com
I`ve done some boards. Mostly out of agave wood and some using balsa. Just two out of foam.
I have learnt a lot from the craziest builds. I know I tend to take the hard way, but I find something very appealing in transforming a pile of whats considered throw-away garbage into a new creation. Agave is a very good example of that, symbolically: the end of the life cycle of the plant, the start of a new surfboard.
everything means learning at the stage i’m in, that’s the good thing
I am having difficulty imagining a chambered, or Hollow pine 9’4" x 2.5" coming in under 20 Lbs, or even 25lbs for that matter, without being overly fragile.
My red cedar 9’7" x 23" x 3" HWS was about 21Lbs without a fin when I first made it 16 years ago. Its now closer to 25lbs with repairs and deck reinforcements and lots of use. Western red Cedar in general is a lot lighter than Pine. The guys who taught me how to build HWS were doing pine structure( rails stringers ribs) and 3/16" marine plywood hull and decks and they were coming in at 18 to 20Lbs for boards in the 7’6" range with a single 4oz glass job. They rode much better than their weight, potato rails and wonky outlines near nose and tail would indicate though that kept me thinking about the velzy quote of “There’s nothing like the feel of wood in water”, or something to that effect.
Its too easy to remove too much strength by not using enough internal structure, or when chambering, which I have no experience with, removing too much wood.
A 30Lb 9’4" long 2.5 thick board would be too easy to bury on turns for a 180 lb surfer, in my opinion. Would be more of a glider trim line crusier, than a Noserider. This can be a rewarding style of surfing though, rather than always trying to perch on the nose. I see some guys and gals who can and do just run to the nose for as much of the wave as possible, and few can seem to do it where it looks good. Many make it look like a compromise Some others are simple lightweights with little skill and the board design nt only allows them to be wave hogs, but to also allow them to perch up there while they posture, think they are great surfers, and make everybody hate longboarders even more.
The HWS do not really flex all that much, especially at first, and when perched on the nose, I believe the tail rocker straightens out a bit with foam boards and allows them to accelerate but still keep that ‘leverage’. I’ve a thicker HWS 9’6"x 3 5/8" with a bunch of tail rocker which is devoid of this feel, and ony fits some waves OK and as such is rarely used. Racy down the line waves and it is simply too slow, but along the ref type of shoreward wave staying closer to the pocket it works well enough with a thick fin. It was quite a let down when I first rode it, but I immediately started making the 9’7" round pin hws, which is now a very high mileage joy machine I will go ride right now.
Unfortunately (for you) it is German. After First chambering the weight was 7.5kg. The final Board was not glassed, but varnished only. It is not me, who Build it.
