Is it me?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This winter has been the cleanest that I can remember. On the central coast of California, there is normally plenty of swell but with stormy conditions. Bumpy, windy, and a lot of whitewater. Not so this year. Today is another overhead day with smooth water. The little kid hasn’t brought a lot of rain but has given plenty of swells. This year they have a longer fetch and clean up really well before arriving. Lucky us. Muchisimas Gracias. Howzit where you are?

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yep!

 

So…Mr. Chrisp, it IS me?    I figured as much.

hahaha, it’s not you…

It’s been a CLEAN winter…

Feels like fall all over again!

Not so clean on my end of the Bay.  At least not on the weekends when I’m out looking.  It’s fickle around here anyway.  No reason for anyone to come and live and surf… Mike

Yeah Mike, your spot really stinks. How does anyone get stuck there anyway? Maybe you should think of getting out. Why would anyone go there in the first place? Cansas, nothin’ but flat spaces. HAH!

It’s tuff living in cansas…

Hahaha

I saw and remember the swell of '69 and what it did to the lineup at Malibu. Surfed the '82-'83 and '97-'98 winters and as far as I can tell this one ranks right up there. Maybe not the amount of huge swells, but for conditions and consistancy, this is a great season. The Eddie was the cleanest I’ve seen the Bay at size. All we need is more rain. How’s the east coast been? Down under? Howzit where you live? The warmer water doesn’t hurt either.

Last month a friend showed me some photos on his iphone.  It was of a big wave spot here in cansas. A big right. He was calling it 20 to 25 foot.  Behind it the is a big mysto left easily three times as big. Think about it.  60 to 70 foot and peeling.  Mike

Sounds awesome Rooster!

I have a BUNCH of photos that I cannot post.

TOH and reeling!

This winter caught me severely undergunned.

Mind if I play?

#1 tblank lost sleep over it.

#2 Chrisp worried more.

Your both to blame!!!

Eh, keep it up!

Best conditions and swells in years.

This is a year for surf.

Saw and surfed the 69 (Summer and Winter)

so I’m experienced.

Caught this on the interworld.

I grow up listening to the old timers

only believed half of the BS.

Until now!

MatWho, there are few guys that have pretty hairy tales of Rincon in '69 in my circle. Forget Bombora, as the photo shows it was beyond that. There is a spot at county line outside the condos that shoals normally on a swell. In ‘98 it was similar to what the Rooster was saying huge everywhere, Pch getting washed out and I pull into Staircase in the pouring rain and see this monster tube 25’ plus just reeling over the shoals while staring into the tube. Like huge Backdoor. Perfect. Never seen it before or since. This wave was flawless. No BS, Watched about five of them come through. Made the top of my head pop off… Do you remember how the lagoon and beach was re-aligned at Malibu after the swell of '69?

Oh my!

Now I’m the old-timer.

Malibu got “rearranged” with all the flooding.

Got the new 3rd 1st,  as best I know.

No one else but a buddy.

Lost board?

Right into the “Polio pond”

That Summer was EPIC!

 Surfed 3 days of way overhead heaven…

Ya see what I mean?

 

for where i surf, 97 was better, cleaner… tho '69 is etched in my mind as best. seems like everyday was big and glassy but i was just a kid and in awe, so maybe it wasn’t asgreat as i like to remember it…