surf with a circumspect respect.
ipatched a board for a chick who was on
a gripe about a kuk who dropped in on her and caused damage .
I composed a poem that entreated her and those who who would read the poem
to realize that the kuk that whopped her board was simply her former self.
forgive yourself for believe you have been blatently wronged,or denied your long due fullfillment.
priority,wave priority,AKA my wave-my turn based on a constantly morphing set of nebulous set
of rules of ettiquite proffered by the self appointed is just numbing to a sensitive.
surfing with people who appreciate just paddling out through junk closeouts
is way more fun than watching self agrandizing narcicists photo documenting
experiencing a beautiful act that goes beyond their comprehension.
In my 52 year of concious surfing
I made a really bitchin board
pollished the shit out of it
skipped the anguish of surfing the 1st
winter swell,and had fun introducing
two couples from accross the globe
to the wonders of becoming weightless
as a n human being riding a wave.
mean while back at the flat rock
some unidentified self absorbed
‘‘twenty something’’ was telling off
the uninitiated at the bowl …
the day after the twent was seen giving
a surf lesson …
!1.never take off on me taking off back door
no matter how many times I fall off.
… ambrose…
I’m hot and you’re not.
oh wait I am a senile fossil surf freak
haole asshole motherpuker washed up
kook,or so I have been told
by an anointed enlightened
photo journalist.
really I am a father of five
and an inspiration to many.
where’s my go pro?It whent gone.
thirty years ago .