Heres a serious question: WHY do you guys bother? All the work and very little actual surfing time! Endless tedious craftsmanship, travel, hiking, expense and lots of paddling, paddling, missed waves, drop-ins, broken equipment, wipe-outs, and other assorted hassles. Sometimes the weather is bad and people often get injured and/or sick on extended surf trips. Please dont say its all FUN, thats a given, right? But what else is there?
well whats the point of anything. working, living, loving… ?
…what else.Herb
well, you named all the not-so-great things that happen in and out of the water (although whats wrong with hiking?)… but now try and think of the positive. It will outweigh the negitive by tons.
…For the stoke!!! What else…durrrr
You either got IT in ya, or ya don’t. There are many activities or hobbies that I personally don’t like too. But surfing and shaping is my addiction. Ride a surfboard which YOU designed and shaped, and you’ll be stoked too.
it’s the closest we can come to getting back in the womb…
…Already got some sharp e-mails about this comment. …Hey guys…it a joke,get it. …I do it for the fun.Herb
I just wrote this long involved answer to this loaded question seriously answering with alusions and refrenceing to help explain but my typing tecnique in ad vertently erased it…when I started to retype it I decided I was tired from a waipa go out and two lau lau’s and the need to explain again may not be worth the effort…taste the salt water after You make the wave then You may internalize the Knowledge… un til then… You may never Know… and thats O.K. End to End waipa in the white ball on an inflateable whoa daddy .k.o era stam elaD … sknaht secret agent ambrose… not talking secrets living the secrets outside the reef while the crowd of friends surfs elsewhere
and the fear factor.