Is this an acceptable glass fabric to glass my board with

I work in construction and have been using glass fiber and carbon fiber wrap lately. I want to take a stab at glassing a fully shaped pu foam blank. I don’t know if this fabric is acceptable for a board though.

Is the fabric I have available to me acceptable to glass a board with? see link for more info

http://www.sikaconstruction.com/tds-cpd-SikaWrapHex106G-us.pdf

Description SikaWrap Hex 106G is a bi-directional E-glass fiber fabric. Material is field laminated using Sikadur 330, Sikadur 300 or Sikadur Hex 300/306 epoxy to form a glass fiber reinforced polymer (GFRP) used to strengthen structural elements.

Where to Use Load increases

Seismic strengthening of:n Columnsn Masonry walls

Advantages n Approved by ICBO/ICC ER-5558.

n Used for shear, confinement or flexural strengthening.

n Flexible, can be wrapped around complex shapes.

n Light weight.

n Non-corrosive.

n Acid resistant.

n Low aesthetic impact.

n Economical.

Possible Applications n Bridges

n Parking Structures

n Buildings

n Marine Structures

n Civil/Environmental Facilities

Packaging Rolls: 50 in. x 450 ft.

Product Data Sheet

Edition 7.2003

Identification no. H37106

SikaWrap Hex 106G

Typical Data

Storage Conditions Store dry at 40°-95°F (4-35°C)

Color White

Primary Fiber Direction 0°/90° (bi-directional)

Weight per Square Yard 9.6 oz. (325 g/m2)

Weight Ratio (Warp:Weft) 1:1

Cured Laminate Properties (0° & 90°) Design Values

Tensile Strength 35,300 psi (244 MPa)

Modulus of Elasticity 2.35 x 106 psi (16,215 MPa)

Elongation at Break 1.43%

Thickness 0.013 in. (0.33 mm)

Strength per Inch Width 572 lbs./layer (2.53 kN)

Fiber Properties

Tensile Strength 3.3 x 105 psi (2,276 MPa)

Tensile Modulus 10.5 x 106 psi (72,390 MPa)

Elongation 4%

Density 0.092 lbs/in3 (2.54 g/cc) C190

I compared it to the S2 Hexcel glass on one of my boards and it is slightly heavier and denser than that fabric.

Also how many layers of fabric does one typically use? I watched a video on swaylocks for glassing boards and it seems fairly easy, but I couldn’t pick up on how many layers the guy put on there. The only semi-difficult thing I foresee is putting in the settings for the fins and leash.

Any advice is appreciated.

10oz. is a bit heavy for these days but …ya…you can glass with it…heck I’ve used bed sheets before and it worked.

Herb

Hope your employer does not follow Swaylocks !!! SPS

Thanks for the reply.

Haha… My employer surfs and he is thinking about giving it a try too. We have glass and carbon fiber wrap coming out of our ears right now. Granted most of it is unidirectional. I can’t imagine you can glass with unidirectional fabric.

Stiff fabric, keep the rail soft, wet out to just before curing…the rail, that is. Make sure temp is within range, as warmer is easier to keep a bond in tight spots.

Meaning, no hard tight edges.

10 oz works for logboards, not the best for chip tris.

As Herb said, anything works, even toilet tissue paper.

You know, I think I may be in trouble with the 10 oz fabric, because I’m looking to glass a 6’5" swallowtail.

I will try and get my hands on some 4oz fabric and not bother with the 10oz. How many layers of fabric should I put on the bottom and on the top? I was thinking somewhere between 4 and 6 layers. If I did use the 10oz fabric, would I only use 2 or 3 layers?

Max 3 layers on top, 2 on bottom for strong but heavy board–most would use 2 layers top, 1 layer bottom with extra patch under fin area, and maybe an extra patch on deck under back foot stomp area. (all 4 oz, forget using 10 oz on that size board)

I’d split the diff and use 6oz. It’s easier to wetout and wrap than 4, as it holds more resin, doesn’t move as much, and doesn’t thread out at the laps.

E seems the easiest, and doing a good job is stronger than theoritical strength.

K is light but on thin, hard rails, can be tough to keep laminated.

S is pretty easy like E, stronger, even thicker, but in my experience, especially in colder climates, harder to fully saturate evenly and the laps don’t stick as well.

Maybe for some of you good glassers, it might not make a difference, but I normally glassed at night in an open garage in about 54 degree temps. Bad conditions, but I had to surf in the daytime.

LeeDD is right, 6oz easier to saturate so my suggestion is to use one layer of 6oz on bottom (extra fin patch optional, but if you do it, use 4oz and don’t wrap it) and one layer of 6oz on top with one layer (not wrapped) of 4oz under it. ASSUMING said 6’5" is polyurethane foam. If your blank is EPS you’ll want to go with 3 layers on deck and 2 on the bottom.