Last night in the wee hours of the morning, already tired from a long day of rubbing boards. I laid out a complicated glass pattern on a pipe gun that had about 3’ of ripped glass on the deck.
After all the color matching for the resin and laying out the glass, I proceeded to wet out the entire repair without hitting my batch with catalyst… Yikes what a problem I woken up to!
Has anyone found a good way to kick off a batch lick this? I can pull it all off and try again, and waste another two hours or I was tempted to try another lam coat over top to try to kick off the work. Any ideas how to save this job from ruin?
thanks in advance for your time in sending a reply.
Thanks for the input guys, wish I could wind back the clock, I checked the post several times and in retrospect I’d take your advice.
In my haste to find a cure for the problem, I tried hitting the deck lay up with a hot batch of sanding resin brushed directly over the still wet lam. It appears to have gone off successfully, now I worry that as Wouter suggests the bottom layer may not ever kick. Oh well… l’ll post photos tomorow after I try to sandng out the deck patch.
I’d pull the glass and do it again if it’s a repair. I’m curious if you weren’t using an opaque pigment of any sort if you could work some uv resin into the glass and kick it in the morning. I’d give that a shot if I were short on supplies.
Yes I used a touch of resin tints, it’s a yellow board. I have some sanding resin with sun cure cat, I could hit the entire job with some of that but I was concerned that applying it to just the top surface would cause the resin below to go off? I’d love that simple solution if you feel it would kick the entire repair. As i mentioned it’s a significant ripped area about 4’ long so I was concerned about final strength of the lam
I just added a photo of the disaster, looks normal but of course it’s still sloppy wet. I think I may experiment with puttingsome sun cure sanding resin on the lap area of cloth hanging off the nose. If it kicks sll the way through to the back of the cloth, the top application of another batch may do the trick. Did I tell you I’m gonna get checked for a rampant case of dumb arse disease. Ugh
One time years ago when I was glassing for a living I did the same thing on a tinted bottom lap. After cursing myself out for a while I came up with a plan. I squeegied out as much of the resin as I could from the board and mixed up some more light blue tinted resin and set it off normally and worked it well in to the glass and finished it as I normally would. It worked and kept me from pulling the glass off and starting over.
I too would do another batch of the same color, lightly catylize, work in over and over, pulling off as much resin as possible into your pot, then boost up the catylist for a final work in, it should go off fine, may take a bit longer, but ???
Thanks Schultini, That does help, I’m marginally encouraged. I just check the board and it feels like a normal cure. (Not sure how it would feel if the mechanical bond of cloth to board was never set up) I Guess the catslyst can migrate through the resin below. Apparently that’s happened at least to some degree. I could not squeegied out much lam resin but the thermal reaction did have some effect on the uncured material below.
Well no, the extra cat and sun cure hot coat didn’t work, as Wouter suggested the bottom layer never kicked. It looked and felt normal but as soon as I hit it with a sander I could tell something was wierd. Surprisingly the botch lam came off rather easily, I wasted an entire morning dinking around with it but it did come clean. I’ve poisted a few shots of the resanded board and another attempt at a lam layer.
Hopefull this will be the last time I pull a bone head move working on someone’s stick. actually the problem was working at 4 am, I must be dumber when tired. Thanks to all for your helpful input. Live and learn…
Ok guys for those that are interested here’s a post of the finished product after a total cluster half way through.
See, it was salvageable, this boards was broken in two, the nose snapped off (gone) and the deck glass ripped back 3.5 ft, and 7 dings
I think it’s rideable, sure it will snap sooner or later , like any egg shell put back together too many times. But at least my customer got his favorite stick back for one more season.
Just curious what other ding guys would charge for this job, a nose rebuild, 7 dings and 3 1/2 ft of ripped glass ? (The break repair was done previously)
Seemed like I have way too many hours in it for what I charged, but obviously that was complicated because of my error, Help me feel better about wasteing my weekend.
