jackson pollock stylee

General Discussion
1

Hi - a while back a saw a post from Ambrose that showed a beautiful longboard painted in splash paint Jackson pollack style. An artist friend of mine fancied having a go at painting my next board kinda like this. Now—does anyone have any tips—can you just splash the stuff (acrylic paint) on and cover with clear acrylic before laminating or is it more difficult than this?

2

…that’s a very good question !

I would get a decent sized bit of scrap foam to practice that on first, I think…

I sprayed my “stubbie” orange acrylic. Then , mixed up some green-pigmented filler [‘hotcoat’] resin , and flicked that on top of the spray, then glassed. [photos attached]. The only inconvenience was little bumps under the glass…I probably should have rolled them flat , first…

… give it a go ‘silvs’, I’ll be interested to hear [ hopefully, see?] how it turns out !!

         ben

ps - how’s the artwork on the G and S “stubbie” ?? [Not mine, unfortunately] . IF I was a good artist, I’d love to do the Salvador Dali " melting watches draped over the trees" painting on a board !!

3

doing it on the foam then squeegeeing works great too…here are some test sample on foam I did and one I did on the bottom of a shaped board…

4

silvy send the guy to my house and Ill have a color day on a board and he can get the gist of it,in time his renderings will get better and better…resin is resin and acrylix are acrylix in my booke… Ive never acryliced with the satisfaction I get from the boldness and brightness of resin…ambrose…Michael Jones has posted pictures of the boards I took to big sur you may be pleased to see them…the travel board is also pictured amongst the detail shots

5


6

the details are here:

http://www.swaylocks.com/forum/gforum.cgi?post=175123;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;forum_view=forum_view_collapsed;t=homepage;page=unread#unread

7

thanks for the offer ambrose – when i get the funds together I’d definitely love to come your way! 'til then, is it foam tinting you’re doing - if so, how to you glass over it without ridges?

(naturally i expect a cryptic reply)

8

hot coat and sand extra work extra dimension extra strength…unfortunately more weight but such is life …ambrose… one more slice of toast

9

So… do you mean you add tint before or after the hotcoat? Read the links above and it seems that you resin tint after laminating? t/f?

10

Silvey I am truely of the mad resinator catagory I do the foam with no >>>NO GLASS!!! lam resin tinted on the foam then another color catalized and perhaps a third or more…Then…dunt dun ta daaaa I hotcoat the foam painted with lam resin with clear resin …allow to crisp up and then sand before laminating for the first time with fiberglass cloth…to the contemporary glassing tech this is maddness,and yes I admit I am mad…but my boards arre often stronger for this attention to reinforcement detailed coloring,the after laminating tinting of the overlap is an exploration in coloration maddness that I also suffer with great glee… the result is numerable sanding steps added to the construction plan,not suitable for production style wannabees or big shopasaurus keep the price down competitors…ambrose…Hope this helps

11

Ben (or others doing foam tints),

On the tail of your board in the pic, when you pulled they tape, does a ridge (resin ridge) form that needs to prepped before laminating?

That is; when say doing a deck color with the rails/bottom left untreated, does a ridge develop that needs to be sanded?

Thanks,

HerbB

12

ambrose–let me get this right—you tint the foam, then hotcoat and sand then laminate then hotcoat and sand. (Wow…does anyone else do this?) Sounds like an amazing way of making a very strong board - how much weight does this add do you think?

Just a thought but could you reduce the glass weight (or no of layers) using this method and keep the strength?..Naturally I expect Ambrose - - you like the extra weight

13

yep.yep yep and nope nobody in their right mind would ever do somthing that would make a board stronger if it added a pound maybe two pounds. The collective mind is lightweight fixated,bless their hearts,they love talking about repair of their low durability equiptment…ambrose…llittle weight in a wind is a good thing

14

Hey Silverback,

Attached are pictures of my version of a Pollock board. It’s a 7’1" Big Guy Tri shaped from a 7’3"R. I put my color in the lam. This is what I did:

In 3 separate containers I mixed 100 ccs of lam in red, blue, and yellow (I will put a dash of white in next time). I prepared, sans cat, a conventional batch of clear lam too (I forget how much - I lost my log book :frowning: I catalyzed and drizzled carefully first the blue, then the red, and finally yellow - try to drizzle only the necessary amount that will saturate the cloth without leaving puddles and hold up the lap in order to properly and crisply saturate that, too. Wait a deep breath or two (allows the colors to set in the cloth), then catalyze and finish the lam with clear initially running the squeegee as much as possible in the directions of the drizzled colors (i.e. stringer to rail - this minimizes blending/smudging, unlike the rails in the foto). It’s surprising how much of the color stays put once you start laminating with your clear batch.

Maxwell

It is difficult to lay aside a confirmed passion.

~ Catullus ~

15
Quote:

Ben (or others doing foam tints),

On the tail of your board in the pic, when you pulled they tape, does a ridge (resin ridge) form that needs to prepped before laminating?

That is; when say doing a deck color with the rails/bottom left untreated, does a ridge develop that needs to be sanded?

Thanks,

HerbB

I do not use tinted resin. The foam tints I do are done with a squeegee and thick acrylic paint not resin. so there isn’t a resin ridge to begin with. I just squeegee the thick paint into the foam. one big stroke on each section. you only get once chance to lay the paint and squeegee,

Ben

16

Hey Shipman – what kind of squegee do you use and do you spray a covering of clear acrylic before laminating?