I have looked through the archives and can not find what I am looking for.
I need help making a router jig for the Hi-USA Center Fin Box sold at Greenlight
Can anyone provide step by step directions (or close to it) with some pictures to help? Thanks!
Kook, cut a piece of 1/2" or 3/4" (better) plywood 8''x16'' and trace the fin box in the center of the plywood rectangle. You can cut out any way you want with a jigsaw or circular saw and chisel or file the ends. Important: cut on the outside of the lines so the mortise you eventually make will be a bit sloppy. The box should move a little. This allows room for glass layers and resin. The template can be taped or attached however you see fit to the board. Don't go full depth on the stringer with the router bit. Work in increments so it won't explode on you. Hope this helps.
It also depends on what type of router bit you are using. I made a jig for a plunge router bit, so I made it out of 2"x2"'s. I did a lot of measureing to make sure it accounted for the base plate and width of the bit. It worked well.
I didn’t take a picture of the inserts I made to shorten the jig for the portion which goes through to the deck - as fate would have it, it only took two pieces of 3/4" I had lying around.
tblank makes a good point about the stringer, and if you’re cutting in eps the heat from cutting too much wood at once can cause melting…
Thanks guys for the imput. Ill try and see what I come up with!
TaylorO, That's a nice little tool you have there. What is the make? I don't believe I've seen one before.
This might help....
http://www2.swaylocks.com/forums/how-to-install-longboard-center-fin-box
and after all the dust settled GhettoRat and Stingray have become good friends....and I missed a chance to hang out with the Rat because I was a few miles up the coast exchanging ideas and information with a guy named PeteC.....there's a wealth of information out there.......
Stingray
Hey Stingray thanks for the link helped a bunch! I think I made a boo boo though. I cut out the tabs on the box, opening it up to one opening. Did I do something bad?
Hi kook420 -
Just stick a fin that you will be using in there when you do the install. Tape off the opening and around the base of the fin to keep it clean. The fin can be used to make sure the box is vertical... just run tape from the fin tip to the rails to anchor it in place while the resin cures. Those tabs are to keep the box from distorting. A fin in place will do the same thing.
On the jig issue there are basically two types:
I use the latter - much like Taylor uses. It is made form acrylic sheet and was made long enough for the 15" box. I use an insert when installing the shorter standard box.
I like the jigs that you can put your router into without worrying about a bit that has the bearings.
Center fin boxes are usually 1 inch in width. Just measure the distance from the edge of the bit you use to the outer edge of your planer’s base. My bit is 1/2" wide and 1" deep. Some are offset so be careful to check that. Then cut out a frame from whatever you have at your disposal that your router will sit in to cut out a 1 inch wide slot that is the length of the long center box.
I made a couple with 1/2" x 1/8" thick aluminum right angle pieces I had. I also added flat pieces that I could clamp or tape to my board. My neighbor built one that around the board and clamps down onto the board.
I used to just tape a piece of 1/2" thick wood to the board and cut one side of the slot then tape another piece to cut the other side. I would use my eyes and the lines I mark to get the length I want. Just be sure to line it up right and it works well. No jigs needed. I did this with a dremel tool quite a bit on EPS foam no stringer.
I like the jigs that you can put your router into without worrying about a bit that has the bearings.
Center fin boxes are usually 1 inch in width. Just measure the distance from the edge of the bit you use to the outer edge of your planer’s base. My bit is 1/2" wide and 1" deep. Some are offset so be careful to check that. Then cut out a frame from whatever you have at your disposal that your router will sit in to cut out a 1 inch wide slot that is the length of the long center box.
I made a couple with 1/2" x 1/8" thick aluminum right angle pieces I had. I also added flat pieces that I could clamp or tape to my board. My neighbor built one that around the board and clamps down onto the board.
I used to just tape a piece of 1/2" thick wood to the board and cut one side of the slot then tape another piece to cut the other side. I would use my eyes and the lines I mark to get the length I want. Just be sure to line it up right and it works well. No jigs needed. I did this with a dremel tool quite a bit on EPS foam no stringer.
John: I like your template, I might have to make one for myself, what materials did you use? Also do you have a router you would like to recommend? I still dont have one
Larger 1/4" shank plunge routers are great if you have to cut through thick stringers.
If you plan on using smaller boxes like ProBox, Futures or FCS Fusion, the smaller edge cutting routers are good.
Make sure you get eye protection before you use the router. Actually you should use it for planers and sanders too. But those routers spit out stuff that can hit your eye faster than you can say sh-t.
Also notice that John’s router has a vacuum attachment. I always try to use the vacuum with the router to help keep the fiberglass mess down to a minimum.
TaylorO, That’s a nice little tool you have there. What is the make? I don’t believe I’ve seen one before.
Thank you very much sir - I take pride in the fact I inherited it from my late maternal grandfather who was a master carpenter. It’s a Porter Cable, and I’m sure it’s pretty old. It’s been a great trip to be able to carry on the craftsperson tradition - using several of the old tools I inherited - I learned my first basic tool use from him.
Howzit TaylorO, That tool is in very good condition for an old tool. I've got a couple of old Porter Cable routers but not that configuration. I wonder if that was the initial style of their "D" handles. Hopefully, Gramps had a Skil 100 in the tool kit too. Cheers.
"what materials did you use?"
Acrylic sheet and some scrap trim molding.
Also do you have a router you would like to recommend?
Lots of perfectly good used routers on eBay. Craftsman aren't bad. Used routers often haven't been used much. Any decent one will last a lifetime if all you are going to do is route fin boxes in foam.
I got mine as part of a package-deal when a local guy just wanted his garage cleaned out. It was like new. Get a good 1/4" bit with at least 1" deep cutting edges.
Go slow and take multiple shallow cuts rather than one deep cut. It'll keep your bit from overheating.
If you want to know how to install a finbox with hand tools, PM me. I've done lots of them with a box cutter, hammer, and chisel.
Howzit John, The one I made was also like your number 2 but made with a plywood base and the sides were out of 1" by 3/8" and I made it so it could be adjusted for all boxes. Had all the materials for an aluminum but I was here visiting and called my room mate foe dimentions of my plywood one ( just the size of the base) and he gave me the wrong dims so when I got back to Kauai I was a little miffed since I had spent about $50 on materials. Can't remember what I did with my wood one and I may have it here or I gaveit to BASA. Aloha,Kokua
Ah tblank - Alas there was no planer left to me. I’ll choose to believe there had not been. I did get the green one in the background for cheap at a pawn shop. I already blamed it on Ambrose… He was shaping and told me to take a pass or two… He said, “The first pass is free, then you’ll be addicted and looking at every garage sale for one…” Sure enough… Found it with in 6 months… Ha!
