Found some cheap cork sheets, 4mm and 10mm. Thinking 4 for deck and 10mm for rail build outs. It’s NP 50 supposedly, used for industrial gaskets.
wondering if it’s possible to join it together to get the length on the deck? Maybe a sawtooth sort of join and glass underneath before vacuuming the cork deck on?
I’d use a scarf joint with the long side of the bevel(s) on the forward piece(s)
Cut the scarfs with coarse abrasive or whatever works for you…
Are you doing glass over the cork also?
What type of board is it going on? You may not need full-length cork. You could just do a 3/4 cork deck and adjust the glass schedule accordingly in the nose.
You could probably just do a butt joint but cut a nice arc on both pieces so you don’t have a stress riser straight across the board. It’s not really structural if you’re doing glass over, it’s just a filler in the sandwich. If you’re not doing glass over, it’s even less important.
That looks really thick.
It will probably go on a short wide short board. Wasn’t going to glass at all but can if need be. I like the ideas guys I’ll have a think and see what I’ll do. Maybe a curved scarf joint?! Haha
talked to flama surf as well on instagram, he reckons a curved join perhaps and says the join will be stronger than the cork and probably the only thing is the aesthetics
PM your address and I will sent you the length you need if in DA USA, AKA merica. CORECORK seams blend to non noticable except for the guy who built it. Your cork is WAY TOO THICK for strength and performance benenficial propeties in a surfboard.
4mm too thick for the deck? I’m talking potentially no glass, direct to the foam vacuumed on and wood bottom skin. Like grant newby or Tom Wenger.
and are you sending it for free?! Haha
I’d say if you don’t use the cork as a sandwich it has no structual properties at all, so the thickness is irrelevant. If you use what you got just joining the machinecut straight ends will mostly likely be the cosmetically best option. There is definately no advantage in cutting circles etc structually.
Did the offer seem other than free? unfortunately it won’t work for long without glass between foam and cork and vacuumed bagged. How again will the board be waterproof? Good luck and show pics
Tack the pieces you’re using together with some tape and then put a little resin in the butt joint when u vacuum bag it. No need to mess around with a scarf joint. I used cork about that thickness in a couple of kiteboards and it worked fine. I just routed out a spot for it in the deck. Not too hard to tune it up with a block and some sparkle if necessary.
Probably by sealing it with something, varnish or lanolin. The cork I have has neoprene glue so I’ll do some tests.
Check out grant newby, Tom Wenger and flama surf. Looking to do something similar. May or may not have a stringer in the centre but definitely parabolic cedar or paulownia. Thanks for all the help everyone I’ll post when I do something with it!!
Not an alaia but a hollow board? Checked out the site and the vent info was very outdated.
Here my personal palownia board but without the drama, or fear of resin and fiberglass and a proper gortex vent.
Thanks for posting… Just looked at the flama site. Very interesting indeed. Learned a lot there. It’s a bit off topic, but has anybody here experience with vacuum bagging prefabricated skins with PU glue?Thanks…
Yeah like EPS with the wood and cork backed direct to the foam with polyurethane foaming glue.
Anyways I’ll get to work and post something soon
