wow, you should see this thing, it’s composite/honeycomb, really cool rails, a vent, and it’s really light.
I just got it this morning so haven’t surfed it, but I’m VERY stoked.
I’ll post a couple pictures in a minute, let me find my camera.
ok, here’s some photos:
oh, yeah, I think this thing was made in 1973. But it’s new to me, as I just bought it this morning… at the swap meet…
It may have been made as early as 1971. I don’t recall if they still had thier head above water in 1973. What is the fin system in the board? Quite the score!
Make sure it’s water tight,they can sink fast ! I believe it a Brewer copy.It’s one of the end production boards, so it’s one of the better ones that’s for sure.They ride good+ in soft glassy waves.A bigger and/or harder wave can be ridden,provided you have the skills and time in it.Mike Purpus Rode them on the northshore and at pipe,backside w/ good results.
Choppy,dippy,way offshore,KingKong waves…it will most likely get you hurt.
Also if you break it , and it takes on a large amount of water quickly…Get off it and swim it in or it will be an anchor instead of a float.If it becomes the anchor before you CAN react…Remove your leash or it will …you know!!!
They’re kinda spinny outty…And a bit vibro-ride too…so go easy at first,and keep the plug out of it when not in use(they can explode).
There are ways to up date it,to perform better,but leave it alone,it’s worth a few bucks.
Let us know what you think. Herb
Hey Keith,
you got yourself a W.A.V.E. hollow, not too many of those in circulation!!!
Curious to see what a modern surfer thinks of the feel compared to what we
thought back then. Last time I rode one was at Osprey in the mid-70’s…
Keep an eye on the seam at the rail from the widepoint-back, they had a
tendency to split after being surfed in bigger waves. Fin boxes were aluminum
and took the Fins Unlimited size tab.
I remember those selling for $400 new, retail ,when I could buy a custom single
fin with resin color, pinlines, and polish for about $120. They were waaaay
high tech for back then. They didn’t even need wax (supposedly, I had to
use wax).
Please let us know how it works, or if you can get some picsin action!!!
Regards,
George
you may be right Bill, there’s a Bill Purpus article on the web saying the first models had domed decks and pinched rails, which describes this board to a “T”. The fin box says “WAVE” in the bottom, looks similar to a Fins Unlimited box. Here’s another pic or two. No fin included, unfortunately. And one, old patched ding on the bottom. Otherwise it’s in amazing shape, the rails are all together. (oops got the shadow of my thumb in the first picture).
Anybody want to guess a value on this board, ballpark? I may donate it to the surf museum if they don’t have one already.
It’s really not a valued collector but to the right person at the right time,and they are getting more and more scarce…? 600-1200…maybe…bottomfeeder prices…like 200-400.Herb
Herb/George/Bill - oh yeah, I knew what it was, that’s why I bought it. My first post was just sort of poking fun at all the guys who think that they are the first ones doing this kind of stuff.
It seems to be watertight but I don’t think I’ll ride this one. At least, not without a fin!
Aqua Jet was the company that started this in 1968 with motorized longboards quickly changing to shortboards due to no interest in the original idea. I was invoved and my surf partner Roger Adams was their team rider. They originaly used Hexel aluminum honeycomb then switched to nylon. There is footage of Roger outsurfing all others on his 7’7" aqua jet during the 1970 world champoinships during a break in the contest at bells beach. This board was designed by my freind and the inhouse designer Mike Croteau.
Keith,
Be sure to put a fin in it. Roy recently posted/says, a fin makes a board go faster.
ok, Bill and Roy - well, that’s good to know.
Being the curious sort that I am, I peeled the not-so-cleverly done fiberglass patch off the bottom of the board (see brown square in last picture of the prior post). The ding underneath was also not-so-cleverly fixed, with some non-color-matched and porous-looking foam. My first thought here would be to replace the useless white foam with some grey epoxy putty with perhaps some backing screen (like for a hole in drywall). Any of you guys have guidance as to a better way to patch a small (the white foam is about 1 inch) hole in a board like this? See attached ding photo:
PS the more I look at this board the more I think maybe I should surf it once it’s 100% watertight again… even though the rails are not how I like them.
Quote:
Be sure to put a fin in it. Roy recently posted/says, a fin makes a board go faster.
So that means multiple fins will make a board go even faster? How about several hoop fins? Could be the ultimate speed machine!
Parker,
I think you’re onto something. I can follow the logic. Isn’t it true, that if some is good, more is better? Keith, per your question about patching that hole. My recall is that the glass/honeycomb/glass sandwich is only 1/2’’ to 5/8’’ thick. I think I’d feather sand the glass around the affected area, and then build it back up with epoxy, and multi layers of 4 oz cloth, and then sand back to level with the surface. Not sure how to address the cosmetics. Maybe some airbrush guys can jump in here with suggestions. If the hole is in a ‘‘good’’ location, a competition band might be a good hide.
Keith,
I had bought a Hollow WAVE back in '72. I think it was the first year that they came out. It was a Morey/Pope creation if memory serves me correctly. It had a very domed deck and a very flat bottom. The board was touted to be indestructable, you could drop it onto the street and neary a ding. Im surprised that you have one on the bottom. Definetly get or make a fin and ride that baby. Some of my most memorable rides were on that board. I would love to hit the lip and just glide down. When you hit the bottom, it was like landing on a cushion of air. Wish I still had mine. I never took the plug out of mine, it’s whole purpose was to let air in and out. As a matter of fact, I would leave mine in my van all summer long without a problem. You definetly need to wax it, I never heard otherwise. Great find! Have fun!
While I can’t give you the background on that particular board (I think you already know it anyway), I can give you some insight on leaky W.A.V.E.'s that you probably already know as well. A little bit of water inside adds an odd pendulum effect in that, as you drop in, the water rushes to the nose, then vice versa as you go to the top. Of course, this is compounded the more water that gets in. Before you ride it, if you do, make sure the breather plug is still functioning. Sorry, I can’t tell you how to do that. Cool board, brought back some fun mid '70’s memories.
I agree, I owned a 6 'pig, roundtail, domed deck, yellow with black rail tape. 10" flex fin. Bought mine from Blinkey at William Dennis,'73, $120 out the door. Never took out the plug cause it was made to allow the board to breath.
Wax, yes.
I was still surfing low, survivial stance, but I did ride some sizeable surf on that board.
Sold it to my friend Charley, unfortunately he lost a nut to that fin…poor Charley.
10" flex fin, good to know. Do any of you recall, did the fin have a hold-down screw at both ends?
did you ever have to do ding repair on it?
this one does still have the vent plug, which is nice, since I wouldn’t want to have to try to find a replacement.
Keith,
I got all the colors under the rainbow to make the ding disapear. If you want I’ll drop by after the holidays?
In the mean time just shove wax in the ding, and remember, it’s not the surfer that makes the fin, its the fin that makes the surfer.
“Roy’s red wetsuit is appropriate once a year” Ho Ho HO.
The fin had two screws to hold it in place. Stainless button head hex.
A friend of mine threw one of those out after storing it for 15 years or so.