Bobby came up to me at the beach this morning. He said it was good to see I was still at the beach. He had not been in the water for 8 years. He has been battling a cancer that destroyed his muscles. This was his first time in the water. I asked him how it felt to be getting back out there. He said he was so excited his legs were shaking and he was “about to crap his wetsuit”. This is his first wave in 8years, He rode it all the way.
Enjoy the ride
cool!
Much respect to your friend.
Your last wave is the only one that counts.
THIS is what it is all about.
Welcome back brother.
That’s great you caught that. You can just see him flashing at the end.
that is awesome! you can see the stoke in his stance
Good for him. I’ll bet he felt the same rush as the first time he caught a wave.
Now that is a beautiful story - Thank for sharing Ace.
thank you Ace - this post sincerely, made my day!, and best of luck to your bro’