kinetic epoxy

General Discussion
1

Ok been doing poly for a while and now have my first eps shaped and ready to glass, for my first epoxy trial,  I was going to use surfset ultra bright from sanded but thats not a option anymore, a local shaper users kinetic 110x & 130 hardener, so thinking of giving that a run. reading the past searches and there is no up to date info talked about that I can find… 

Is scrubing still required between lam and filler with their products?

The shaper had a delam issue about the diameter of a cricket ball in the deck lamination, whats the best way to stop this?

Would I be better off using a different epoxy, I was thinking another option is CET? I live in newcastle and would be driving to gosford to get the kinetic since they only sell the non bright here…

 

 

2

Think I will follow this technique and go from there, this is for CET epoxy

 

Picked up some kinetic today and have sealed the board, will probably sand it later today and set the fins

A broad range of laminating techniques are used in surfboard construction. This is a simple step by step procedure for a 6’2”board.

 

1. Shape blank ( EPS or PU ) and set in fin system ( Fusion or Futures etc ) 
2. Mix 80 grams of resin. 
3. Paint 3 cm band around the deck where the bottom fiberglass lap finishes.
4. Turn board bottom up and set the decals with left over resin.
5. One 4oz layer of fiberglass over the bottom and trim for rail lap.
6. Mix 240 grams of resin, wet out fiberglass and wrap rails.
7. Wait 4 hours so resin can cure. ( 24-26C is ideal )
8. Turn board upright and file / sand off any bumps on rail lap.
9. Cut hole for leggie plug.
10. Mix 80 grams of resin.
11. Pour some resin in leggie hole and push plug in.
12. Set the decals with left over resin.
13. 2 X 4oz layers of fiberglass over the deck and trim for rail lap.
14. Mix 320 grams of resin, wet out fiberglass and wrap rails.
15. Wait 2 hours so resin can gell.
16. .Mix 300 grams of resin and paint deck and rail laps.
17. Next day file / sand off any bumps on bottom rail lap.
18. Tape rail leaving a dam at the tail for the resin edges.
19. Mix 300 grams of resin and paint bottom.
20. Sand board after resin is post cured ( 8 hours @ 40-50C )

2448×3264 1.15 MB

3

I don’t know about the epoxies that you mention as I live on the other side of the planet and haven’t even heard of those.

Hopefully someone closer can help you out in that regard.

Stingray’s comments in this thread: http://www.swaylocks.com/forums/first-epoxy-glass-job-s

really helped me get my epoxy glassing.

4

On EPS up to 2lb, your 4oz glass schedule is good for a disposable light surf that chatter sometimes. Seal blank before lam will help for easier lam. except if you want a super light board go with 6under and 6+4top, still light and often feel better. Use less resin for fill coat, sand and do a finish coat easier way to a nice watertight finish. Dont forget that all EPS core can drink lot of water from a pinhole when big température difference.

5

Yeah forgot to mention that board picture is taken after sealing, I will be doing 4+4 + tail rail tape top and 4+4 bottom.

Bottom two layers done, so far I like working with epoxy 

 

 

6

hey mate. Kinetix is good resin. I glass with it everyday. 

My normal procedure is.

  1. clean off all dust and marks from the blank.

  2. Flip so the botttom is facing upwards

  3. Cloth up your board.

  4. I then roll back the cloth to where the decals need to be placed.

  5. Paint resin underneath the blank onto the rail of the deck.

  6. Place Logos, roll back cloth and do bottom lam.

  7. Once board has tacked off a little I place fin patches over the under glass systems.

  8. Flip board and seal the stringer. We use surfblanks oz and for some reason we get gassing on the stringers, so a good seal can help prevent it. 

  9. grind the laps smooth, key up the rails and onto the bottom where the lap will extend too. 

  10. Laminate deck. 

  11. Flip over to the bottom key up both the bottom and deck for the hotcoat to bond too.

  12. Tape up for your bottom edge

  13. Hotcoat bottom and deck. (we add a combination of wax = makes the resin a little softer/ easier to sand and xylene to prevent fisheyes. Also make sure to not touch the laminate with oily hands as these will contaminate your hotcoat and cause seperations).

  14. Pre sand laminate flat.

  15. Re hotcoat 

  16. Finish Sand

Also when using eps we dont pre seal the blank. We use marko foam which doesnt seem to absorb the resin like some other blanks do so a nice smooth finish and a skim coat is all you need.